"Birthing the Piggy on Shelf Road presents a bold trad climb blending wide cracks and a challenging chimney section, perfect for climbers ready to engage with raw rock and thoughtful gear placements. Its honest 5.8 rating offers a rewarding, tactile climb framed by Colorado’s distinctive sandstone."
Birthing the Piggy opens as an unassuming gateway into Shelf Road's rugged heart, inviting climbers to test their edge against a bold 100-foot trad route carved between Pink Torpedo and The Sweepings. This climb rewards those ready to engage with a wide crack system that feels alive beneath your fingers and feet, offering a tactile, demanding experience that blends raw physicality with precise gear placement. The route begins with steady jamming along the wide crack, requiring a keen feel for the rock’s texture and a patience that keeps every move fluid. As you ascend, you'll encounter a narrow squeeze chimney that pushes you back against the wall—a subtle reminder that climbing here is as much about body awareness as strength. The chimney's back passage challenges your positioning before it opens onto the topout, where a sturdy tree anchors your belay and the surrounding air feels expansive, framed by the canyon’s open expanse.
Approach this route with a respectful eye toward preparation: the single rack to 3-inch cams, bolstered by #5 and #6 C4s, equips you for the climb’s protective needs. While the first bolt from The Sweepings offers some relief, skipping large gear sizes will sharpen your route-finding skills and force you to trust your placements. The anchors, bolted and reliable, offer a comfortable belay after the first pitch, particularly useful when managing rope systems or assisting partners.
Descending requires clear heads and careful footing. The gully to the right provides a more natural exit, yet the route's exposed anchors near Poncho demand a brief, focused belay when transitioning. The descent terrain tests your mindfulness after the climb’s intensity, underscoring the dynamic nature of the Shelf Road environment.
Birthing the Piggy delivers an adventurous slice of Colorado climbing that’s equal parts approachable and gritty. Its proximity to Canon City makes it accessible for a day visit, but the experience stamps an impression of remoteness. The rock’s texture, the route’s crack features, and the strategic placements needed shape a climb that’s as much a mental puzzle as a physical challenge. Prepare adequately, move confidently, and you’ll leave the wall with a clear sense of accomplishment shaped by this distinctive trad route’s rhythm and character.
While the bolted anchors at The Sweepings provide reliable protection, the chimney exit is tight and exposed, requiring careful movement and attention to rope management. The descent gully can be loose; take your time and watch for unstable rocks.
Arrive early to avoid afternoon heat on the sandstone walls.
Use sticky rubber shoes for enhanced friction on the crack edges.
Bring slings to extend gear placements and reduce rope drag.
Check weather as Shelf Road’s rock can be slick after rain.
A comprehensive rack up to 3-inch cams is essential, with #5 and #6 C4s providing critical placements in wider sections. Large gear can sometimes be bypassed by clipping the first bolt on The Sweepings but having full protection will boost confidence in tricky placements.
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