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Birthday Gorilla

Fraser Valley, Canada
trad climbing
arete
seam crack
one pitch
rap anchor
Fraser Valley
British Columbia
technical moves
Length: 75 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Birthday Gorilla
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Birthday Gorilla is a focused 75-foot trad climb at Harrison Bluffs, boasting sharp arete and seam moves that challenge your technique in the heart of British Columbia's Fraser Valley. With clear gear spots and a reliable rap anchor, this route combines straightforward protection with a dynamic face climb."

Birthday Gorilla

Tucked into the quieter left end of the Smoked Salmon crag in Harrison Bluffs, Birthday Gorilla offers a focused taste of classic Trad climbing with its commanding 75-foot pitch. This route challenges you with a textured face climb just left of a lean-angled seam, demanding precise body positioning and smooth, confident moves. Your left hand will find purchase along a sharp arete while your right fingers thread into the seam, requiring a dynamic balance of strength and finesse. Occasional bear hug maneuvers add a physical flare, as you inch upward into the warm canopy of the Fraser Valley. The rock here is solid but demands careful touch; it's steep but not overwhelming, placing a premium on clean technique and gear placements.

The approach sets the tone for the calm adventure ahead. East Wall Trail guides you through forested steps and mossy rocks, weaving past the whispers of native firs and the cool air that drifts off nearby rivers. It's an easy walk in with a hint of wilderness character that foreshadows the focused engineering of this climb. On-route protection is straightforward yet requires preparation—two bolts anchor key points, but you'll want to bring small nuts and a #2 camalot to confidently negotiate crack sections where natural placements shine.

Although the route is singular in its pitch, the diversity of moves and subtle complexity make it stand apart. The rap anchor at the top ensures a safe and smooth descent back down to the forest floor, offering a moment to breathe in the encompassing vista of Fraser Valley and the steady pulse of British Columbia's crisp mountain air. Birthday Gorilla appeals to experienced climbers seeking a punchy challenge within picturesque surroundings, blending technical climbing with a practical setup that rewards measured effort.

For paddlers or hikers new to the area, timing your climb for early morning or late afternoon ensures softer sunlight on the crag, reducing glare and keeping the rock cooler through the warmer months. Remember to test placements and double-check your anchors, as the protection requires a blend of fixed and natural gear. Whether setting out for a day on the wall or scouting routes in the greater Harrison Bluffs region, Birthday Gorilla stands as a solid highlight—focused, tangible, and just rugged enough to sharpen your climbing instincts.

Climber Safety

The route features a mix of fixed bolts and natural gear placements, so ensure your protection is properly placed with special attention to small nuts in the seam’s constricted spots. The rock is generally solid but inspect for loose flakes near the arete. The rap anchor is reliable but demands proper rope management to avoid snagging on rough edges.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length75 feet

Local Tips

Approach via East Wall Trail for a well-marked, mellow hike.

Start early to enjoy the cool morning shade on the crag.

Check your small nuts and camalot before leaving—placements are key on this route.

Use the rap anchor carefully; double-check your setup before descending.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10d rating on Birthday Gorilla reflects a route that tests your technical climbing with a crux requiring precise hand placement and body tension. While the grade feels accurate, the bear hug sections add a touch of physical effort that pushes the pitch beyond pure finesse. Climbers familiar with moderate 5.10 routes in the Pacific Northwest will find this a rewarding challenge, with solid but not overburdened protection.

Gear Requirements

Bring two bolts protection supplemented by small nuts and a #2 camalot to secure crack sections. A solid rap anchor awaits at the top for descent.

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Tags

trad climbing
arete
seam crack
one pitch
rap anchor
Fraser Valley
British Columbia
technical moves