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Bird Shit Avenue: A Classic Finger Crack on Duncan's Ridge

Fort Collins, Colorado United States
finger crack
overhang
trad climbing
single pitch
Colorado sandstone
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Bird Shit Avenue
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Bird Shit Avenue delivers a compact yet demanding finger crack climb under a tense overhang on Duncan’s Ridge. This single-pitch route tests your crack skills and route reading in a solid, well-protected line just outside Fort Collins."

Bird Shit Avenue: A Classic Finger Crack on Duncan's Ridge

Bird Shit Avenue offers a straightforward yet engaging climb that immediately challenges you with a finger crack tucked under a low overhang. Located on Duncan's Ridge near Horsetooth Reservoir, this single-pitch route blends technical crack climbing with a brief traverse around a sharp arete, inviting climbers to test precision and steady footwork on solid Colorado sandstone. The initial move requires threading fingers into the crack beneath roughly a 10-foot roof—an unmistakable crux that demands both endurance and focus. As you maneuver through the overhang, the climb presents a choice: head left for a gentler 5.8 variation or commit right to the full 5.9 challenge, each demanding clean movement and careful gear placement.

The crack continues upward for another ten feet, broadening slightly before splitting. This fork allows climbers to tailor their ascent according to skill and confidence, making it approachable for those honing crack technique, yet offering a subtle push for seasoned trad climbers. While the route is short, at about 40 feet, it holds a punchy amount of technical that rewards precision and mental control.

Gear placements abound throughout the line, with sizes ranging from small stoppers and medium cams to larger friends, ensuring a well-protected climb for those carrying a versatile rack. The rock quality is reassuringly solid, and the natural features invite creative placements, though mastering the sequence through the finger crack over the bulge is key to a clean send.

Beyond the climbing, Duncan's Ridge situates you in a landscape where gentle pine stands bathe the approach trail in shifting light and Horsetooth Reservoir shimmers nearby, reminding you of the quieter side of outdoor adventure. The approach to Bird Shit Avenue is brief but uneven, winding through forested steps and rocky patches that prime your mind for the technical focus ahead.

For climbers seeking a concise route within the Fort Collins climbing scene, Bird Shit Avenue stands out as a reliable test piece that refines finger crack competence while offering a bit of adrenaline via its roof maneuver. Whether you’re stepping up from easier cracks or solidifying a solid 5.9 trad tick, this route packs value into a single pitch. Treat the landing with caution and prepare for a straightforward descent off the top.

Plan your ascent with attention to protection size variety and steady footing. Daylight climbs benefit from morning sun to warm the rock without overheating, with late spring through early fall being the most comfortable window for dry conditions. Hydrate before stepping onto the route and wear sturdy climbing shoes that excel in crack smearing to maximize your grip. Bird Shit Avenue rewards patience and focus, inviting climbers to embrace the tactile dialogue between hand, foot, and stone in a classic Colorado setting.

Climber Safety

Avoid using the boulder ledge behind the overhang to cheat the crux, as this shortcut reduces the climb’s intended difficulty and may lead to less secure moves. Ensure your gear is placed solidly in the crack as fall potential exists on the overhang sequence. The approach trail includes loose rock patches—stay deliberate with footing.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Approach via a short, uneven trail through pine stands; sturdy footwear recommended.

Morning climbs warm the rock gently—avoid hottest afternoons in summer.

Carry a full range of cams and stoppers for confident protection.

Stay on the left crack variation if you prefer a slightly easier finish.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- rating feels fair for the crux—a technical finger jam moving under a short overhang that demands body tension and subtle footwork. The optional left finish softens the difficulty to 5.8 for those looking to ease off the crux while still enjoying clean crack climbing. Compared to nearby routes, it offers a focused skill-building challenge without overstaying its welcome.

Gear Requirements

Bring a versatile trad rack ranging from small #00 Mastercams to large #4 C4s, plus small stoppers. The route offers numerous gear placements along the finger crack and overhang, making protection straightforward except for careful placement on the crux moves beneath the overhang.

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Tags

finger crack
overhang
trad climbing
single pitch
Colorado sandstone