"A crack climb centered in Billy’s Buttress, Billy Goes to Mexico challenges with an initial scramble followed by a fun, body-wedging crack. Protected by four bolts, this 5.8 single pitch is ideal for climbers refining crack techniques in a rugged Colorado setting."
Billy Goes to Mexico offers a straightforward yet rewarding climb that threads a central crack on Buena Vista’s Billy’s Buttress. From the base, the route challenges you immediately with a short scramble over a sharp, small boulder—an opening act that wakes your balance and footing. Once past this initial obstacle, the climb morphs into a generous crack system inviting you to wedge yourself in, creating a tactile connection with the rock that feels both secure and invigorating. The crack is forgiving but demands attention to technique, pushing climbers to find comfort in their body positioning and finger jams.
Though the rock generally holds firm, caution is required around the right side where flakes can test your grip and judgement. Protection consists of four bolts leading to a pair of ring rap anchors, making gear straightforward and accessible for sport or top-rope setups. This single-pitch route has a 5.8 rating, showcasing moderate difficulty suited for climbers honing crack climbing skills or seeking a confident lead in a calm setting.
The approach to Billy’s Buttress is efficient, positioned in the clear light of Buena Vista’s high country. The cliff faces southeast, basking in morning sun and offering climbing conditions that cool off pleasantly by afternoon. For those timing their outing, spring through fall is ideal, avoiding the winter’s chill and summer’s afternoon thunderstorms.
Below, the surrounding terrain is rugged yet welcoming, with pine-scented air and distant views of Colorado’s soaring peaks. The setting is approachable: the trail to the base is well-marked, moderately steep but brief, requiring about 15 minutes from the nearest parking area. The rock’s character and the climb’s crisp length make it a practical warm-up or a rewarding standalone challenge.
For gear, bring a standard sport rack, but don’t overlook good crack gloves or tape to protect your hands during jammed moves. This is a technical route that benefits from a steady approach and respect for the rock’s subtle fragility.
In all, Billy Goes to Mexico strikes a clear balance between adventure and comfort, suited for climbers who enjoy engaging cracks and value protection clarity. It’s a route that invites exploration without excessive risk, perfect for a midday climb with time to soak in Buena Vista’s spirited mountain ambiance.
Stay vigilant around the flaky sections on the crack’s right side to avoid unreliable holds. The start requires stable foot placements on sharp rock, so slow and deliberate movement is best. Check weather as the area can experience sudden thunderstorms in summer afternoons.
The first bolt requires a sharp scramble over a small boulder—watch your footing.
Avoid placing weight on the flaky rock along the crack’s right side.
Approach via a marked trail taking about 15 minutes from parking.
Spring through fall offers the best weather; mornings bring ideal sun exposure.
Four bolts secure the route to two ring rap anchors. Bring a standard sport rack and consider tape or gloves for crack protection. The right side has flaky sections requiring careful hand placements.
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