HomeClimbingBig Man, Little Man

Big Man, Little Man Trad Route at Parking Lot Rock

Big Bear Lake, California United States
trad
fist crack
squeeze crux
short route
single pitch
sunny exposure
hand jams
beginner friendly
Length: 20 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Big Man, Little Man
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Big Man, Little Man is a short but punchy trad route in the San Bernardino Mountains, weaving hand jams and horizontals into a 20-foot fissure that tests your technique in an exposed and sun-washed setting. Perfect for climbers keen to sharpen crack skills with straightforward gear placement."

Big Man, Little Man Trad Route at Parking Lot Rock

Big Man, Little Man offers a compact but satisfying trad experience perched within the rugged terrain of Parking Lot Rock in the San Bernardino Mountains. This 20-foot route compels climbers to engage directly with the rock’s natural architecture through a sustained fist crack punctuated by a series of horizontal breaks. The crack breathes an inviting yet tested challenge, demanding both patience and precise body positioning. As you ascend, the rock’s texture catches your fingertips, while the fresh mountain air carries the faint scent of pine from surrounding groves.

The climb culminates in a tricky squeeze move that thins out just enough to force even slender climbers to strategize, sharing a moment of concentration before surmounting the crux. Upon topping out, climbers are rewarded with a simple ledge offering a quiet vantage point to absorb the expanse of Big Bear North’s granite faces and distant ridgelines stretching toward the horizon.

For trad climbers, this route’s gear requirements are straightforward but essential: protective placements extend up to 3.5 inches, nestled reliably within parallel fissures and horizontal breaks. The rock quality remains solid and stable through the pitch, reinforcing confidence in placements. Though the climb is brief and accessible, it delivers a focused dose of traditional crack climbing that suits those looking to sharpen hand-jam technique and experience the raw tactile pulse of granite.

Access is direct; Parking Lot Rock lies conveniently off the main trail system circling Holcomb Valley Pinnacles, making approach a short, manageable stroll with limited elevation gain. This ease of access is perfect for a quick climbing session or as a warm-up to longer adventures nearby. Climbers should time their ascent to avoid midday sun, especially in summer months, as the southern exposure can intensify heat on the rock surface.

Gear up thoughtfully, hydrate adequately, and prepare mentally for a route that demands steady patience through its awkward squeeze finish. Big Man, Little Man calls out to those who appreciate concise, traditional challenges wrapped in a striking high-desert setting.

Climber Safety

The squeeze section can catch climbers off guard due to its narrowing profile; take care to move deliberately to avoid getting lodged. Rock quality is solid but always double-check placements due to the route’s compact length. Be cautious of heat on the south-facing wall during midday hours.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length20 feet

Local Tips

Approach trail is short and well-defined; allow 10-15 minutes from the parking area.

Start early in the morning to avoid intense afternoon sun on the south-facing rock.

Bring gloves or tape for hand protection around the fist crack.

Check weather reports during summer—high temps make the rock uncomfortably hot.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:At 5.8, Big Man, Little Man reads as approachable but with a technical crux near the top that can push even experienced climbers. The grade feels fair, with the squeeze move adding a subtle intensity to an otherwise steady climb. Compared to nearby routes, it stands out as a short but precise test of finger and hand jam technique.

Gear Requirements

Traditional gear up to 3.5 inches is required. The crack offers solid placements with parallel fingers and horizontal breaks ideal for cams and nuts. No fixed gear noted; bring a full rack focused on medium to large sizes.

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Tags

trad
fist crack
squeeze crux
short route
single pitch
sunny exposure
hand jams
beginner friendly