"Big Iron on His Hip is a four-pitch trad climb in Quebec’s Laurentians that blends solid crack and slab climbing with natural protection and a touch of rugged challenge. Its mix of moderate and technical pitches offers a genuine alpine climbing experience for those ready to engage with traditional gear and creekside wilderness."
Big Iron on His Hip offers a straightforward yet engaging trad climbing experience tucked into the rugged contours of Le Nez de l'Indien in Quebec’s Laurentians. This route, stretching roughly 380 feet over four pitches, demands steady footwork and confident gear placements as you navigate a sequence of varied terrain. The climb starts with a moderate gully ascent, marked by loose rock, requiring care both for the lead and the belayer below. The first pitch leads to a prominent tree growing out from a roof, a natural anchor within a raw alpine setting.
Pitch two pushes the climber into a tight stem box with limited protection opportunities, followed by a committing slab move beneath a roof. After a rightward traverse, you gain a sheltered belay spot just below the roof’s lip. The pulse quickens on pitch three with a brief but intense crux rated 5.10+, demanding precise technique and strength before releasing into a striking, clean dihedral. This pitch stands out as the route’s defining challenge, blending power with finesse.
The final pitch shifts focus to balance and creative movement as you traverse leftward, working your way through corners before confronting a steep crack requiring a dynamic move toward the summit. The climb finishes at a sturdy tree with roomy belay space and views opening up over the surrounding forested slopes.
The approach to the base is straightforward but rugged, involving a moderate hike through the Laurentians’ forested hills, with GPS coordinates pinpointing the access route to Le Nez de l'Indien. Climbers will find this route free of bolts entirely, relying on traditional gear placements. A standard rack up to a #3 cam along with alpine draws will suffice, and a metal brush may come in handy for cleaning holds.
Given the route’s variability—from loose rock on the first pitch to the powerful crux on the third—vigilance on rock quality and consistent protection placement is crucial. Seasonal timing is best in late spring through early fall when the rock is dry and temperatures moderate. The north aspect provides partial shade, keeping the rock cooler during summer days but allowing sun exposure in the mornings.
Big Iron on His Hip is suited for climbers comfortable on sustained trad pitches who seek a route blending straightforward climbing with pockets of distinctly challenging moves. It’s a rewarding objective for those aiming to deepen their crack and slab climbing skills in a serene, less-trafficked Quebec location. With all belays on natural gear and no bolts, this climb honors traditional ethics and invites careful, thoughtful ascent.
Whether you’re eyeing a solid lead challenge or a multi-pitch adventure away from crowds, this route in the Laurentians delivers an honest trad climb with varied terrain and plenty of character. Be prepared for the loose sections, pack your trusty rack, and get ready to experience a significant punch of climbing amid the crisp air and whispering pines of eastern Canada.
Loose rock on the first pitch demands caution—rockfall can threaten the belayer. Carefully test holds and place protection before progressing. The stem box on pitch two offers limited gear options, so be prepared for tricky placements. Always wear a helmet and communicate clearly with your partner.
Check rock stability carefully on the first pitch due to loose sections near the gully.
Bring a full traditional rack plus some extras for tight placements in the stem box.
Start climbs early to avoid afternoon shadows and benefit from morning sun on the north-facing wall.
Be prepared to commit on the slab move below the roof; trust your footwork and gear placements.
A standard trad rack up to a #3 cam is essential, paired with alpine draws for smooth clipping. A metal brush is recommended to clean holds along the route, especially on the second pitch’s slab and stem sections.
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