"Beverly's Tower offers a focused single-pitch trad climb in Yosemite’s Cookie Cliff, blending moderate stemming with solid protection. Perfect as a warm-up or gateway to classic routes, it balances approachable technique with inviting granite features."
Beverly's Tower stands as an inviting introduction to the renowned Cookie Cliff sector in Yosemite Valley, offering a single pitch of engaging traditional climbing that blends technical moves with solid protection. Its 100-foot length unfurls a route that threads through a well-defined dihedral, demanding balanced stemming and careful footwork. The rock here feels alive beneath your hands, with textured granite surfaces that promise reliable holds and occasional smears, pulling you upward in a measured ascending rhythm.
The approach to Beverly's Tower is accessible yet immersive, placing climbers within the evocative Lower Merced River Canyon, where the air is cool with river breezes and the sound of distant water carves through the valley. This pitch sets the tone for the area — straightforward enough to warm your muscles but sufficiently technical to sharpen your focus before tackling the tougher, adjacent classics like Butterfingers and Wheat Thin.
Protection is straightforward but demands attention. A standard rack covers the necessary gear, with the start requiring small cams that fit snugly into constricted cracks, easing into larger hand-size pieces nearer the top. Bolts positioned on a ledge above the pitch act as anchors and launch points for more challenging upper routes, offering a comfortable zone to regroup before the next climb.
Timing your climb here benefits from mid-morning to early afternoon sun, which warms the granite but avoids the peak heat of the day, ensuring grippy holds remain consistent. Along the base, pines quietly rustle, and sunlight dapples the rock face, inviting climbers to engage with the granite in harmonious flow. The descent is convenient; a controlled rappel from fixed anchors returns you to the ledge below, minimizing exposure on the return.
Whether aiming to build confidence on trad gear, warm up for longer routes, or simply experience a slice of Yosemite’s less crowded edges, Beverly’s Tower offers a satisfying climb. Approach tracks are well-worn but retain a rugged edge, requiring sturdy footwear and a steady pace as you navigate through uneven terrain. Bring ample water and prepare for potentially brisk winds funneling through the canyon’s depths.
For those piecing together a day in the Cookie Area, Beverly's Tower is more than just an access pitch; it’s a minor test of technique paired with scenic bearings that hint at the adventures awaiting just above. Its accessibility pairs well with its connection to more strenuous climbs, making it a reliable starting point and a cherished piece of Yosemite traditional climbing lore.
Although the protection is generally reliable, the initial small cam placements require careful inspection and deliberate placement to avoid runouts. The ledge above serves as a safe transition but climbers should secure themselves before moving higher. Watch for loose rock near the base and be prepared for occasional gusts funneling through the canyon.
Mid-morning to early afternoon provides optimal sun exposure and warmer rock.
Wear sturdy shoes to manage the uneven approach trail through rocky terrain.
Hydrate well before ascent; the canyon breeze can trick you into underestimating fluid needs.
Plan the rappel descent by checking anchor condition before lowering.
Bring a standard trad rack with an emphasis on small cams for the initial crack before stepping up to hand-size protection near the top. Bolts are present on the upper ledge for anchoring and continuing upward.
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