"Betwixt is a brief but demanding trad climb that carves a sharp finger crack on Powell River’s coastal cliffs. Its technical moves and precise gear placements make it a standout challenge for those seeking a focused, single-pitch adventure."
Perched on the rugged cliffs above Powell River, Betwixt offers a sharp, concentrated burst of technical trad climbing that demands precision and focused power. This single-pitch route, stretching about 40 feet, guides you up a steep left-arching finger crack carved into the weathered rock—a natural line that tests your finger strength and crack-jamming finesse. Approaching the climb, the air hums with the crispness of British Columbia’s coastal wilderness, where Douglas firs sway gently and the distant river below dares you to push your limits.
Getting on Betwixt means first settling into a challenging pull on a sloping hold—a move that separates the confident from the tenacious. The line trends left, requiring skillful positioning to navigate the upper section, where subtle gear placements become your safety net. Unlike longer spits of climbing, Betwixt keeps its intensity focused, packed into a brief but memorable sequence that leaves a lasting impression.
Though short, this route should be approached with respect; the 5.10c/d R rating signals both technical difficulty and runout potential. Safety anchors wait at the summit to ease your worries before the descent. Climbers typically reach Betwixt via adjacent climbs—either The Gash or Mud Wasp—using these as stepping stones that cradle your path to the base. This approach through steep forest trails rewards you with fresh sea air and the scent of cedar as you prepare to climb.
Your rack should focus on secure finger- and hand-sized cams and nuts capable of wedging tightly in the crack’s irregularities. Pro placements can be subtle here, demanding your attention to detail and confidence in gear selection. Expect the rock to be solid but textured, gripping enough to keep your feet locked in while you slot fingers into the crack’s inviting fissures.
Offers a potent blend of adventure and skill refinement, Betwixt is ideal for climbers who appreciate concise, technical routes and wish to test their trad technique in British Columbia’s quiet but compelling climbing corridors. Timing your ascent during the drier late spring through early fall months ensures safer conditions, as winter rain and moisture can make the holds slick. Early morning climbs are best to avoid afternoon sun that can heat the north-facing wall. Descending is straightforward via a top anchor rappel, providing a secure exit and a moment to look back on your accomplishment.
Embrace Betwixt as a focused workout in finger jams and delicate footwork, anchored by the wild coastal landscape’s quiet confidence. It rewards climbers who master its nuances with a brief but vivid taste of Powell River’s raw climbing potential, framed by forest whispers and open skies.
Due to runout sections and tricky gear placements, climbers should approach Betwixt with solid crack-building skills and cautious movement. The rock is reliable but do not underestimate the risk posed by sparse protection; always double-check placements and clip efficiently.
Access Betwixt via The Gash or Mud Wasp climbs to the left for easiest approach.
Climb in dry weather; moisture makes holds slippery and increases risk.
Early morning climbs provide optimal light and cooler temperatures on this north-facing wall.
Double-check small gear placements near the crux for security before committing.
Bring a rack heavy on finger- to hand-sized cams and nuts. Gear placements can be subtle and require finesse, especially near the top. Anchors are fixed at the summit for a safe rappel.
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