HomeClimbingBetty Does Brownsville

Betty Does Brownsville: A Pocketed Sport Climb in Angeles National Forest

Los Angeles, California United States
pocket climbing
technical
sport climb
single pitch
California granite
sun exposure
5.9
Length: 88 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Betty Does Brownsville
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Betty Does Brownsville is a pocket-rich 5.9 sport climb in Texas Canyon offering a dynamic mix of slab and steep, pocketed headwall. Perfect for climbers seeking a smart, technical route that tests precision and provides solid protection in Angeles National Forest."

Betty Does Brownsville: A Pocketed Sport Climb in Angeles National Forest

Rising sharply from the rugged terrain of Texas Canyon, Betty Does Brownsville offers climbers a direct encounter with steep, pocketed rock that demands both precision and patience. The route begins with a technical boulder problem on a headwall peppered with pockets, inclusions, and small edges, challenging your footwork and finger strength right out of the gate. As you ascend, the climb eases onto a lower angled slab, offering a brief respite to collect your breath and gauge the granite’s subtle textures, before the wall tightens, pushing you toward a bold section above.

Here, the face steepens dramatically alongside a large block, pulling you into a pocket-studded headwall where each hold feels deliberately placed, inviting you to test your grip and sequencing. The flow revolves around careful body positioning and fluid movement, with one last, intriguing move shifting left via a step-through to reach the anchors secured by 10 well-spaced bolts. This single pitch, though only 88 feet in length, packs a rewarding variety of features that keep the climb engaging from start to finish.

Betty Does Brownsville sits amid the stark beauty of Angeles National Forest’s Texas Canyon, a place where the unyielding rock contrasts with the distant hum of the Los Angeles Basin below. The route's sharp pockets almost dare you to unlock their secrets, while the sun overhead shifts shadows across the face, highlighting the rock’s texture. This area offers solid protection with fixed bolts and a two-ring Fixe anchor, ensuring a secure ascent for those looking to push their 5.9 skills on sport routes.

The approach is straightforward, though expect a bit of rough terrain on the way to the crag. Navigating through the First Corridor to Texas Canyon, climbers should anticipate a 15 to 20-minute hike along uneven ground that carries the scent of sagebrush and pine. Early morning or late afternoon climbs are ideal to avoid the midday heat and to enjoy the changing light on the rock wall.

For those seeking more, Betty Direct lies just five feet left, open only to top-rope as it shares the proximity with Betty Does Brownsville. This nearby face invites a different style of climbing with its equally pocketed holds, making for an excellent warm-up or cooldown option.

Gear-wise, your draws will clip easily into 10 bolts, but solid shoes with sticky rubber are paramount for the smooth slab section and the subtle feet placements required on the pockets. Bringing a light rack for your quickdraws supplemented by a harness and helmet is all that’s needed for this reliable, beginner-to-intermediate-level sport climb. Hydration is essential—shade is minimal, so plan for sunny conditions and drink plenty before and during your attempt.

Despite its approachable grade, Betty Does Brownsville demands respect for its steeper, exposed headwall and precise moves. Adventurers should anticipate a climb that balances physical strength with mental focus, offering a rewarding challenge that feels accessible without undercutting the thrill of vertical exposure. This route is a compelling entry into the vibrant climbing scene of Angeles National Forest, providing both seasoned climbers and ambitious newcomers a route to sharpen skills and savor the dynamic textures of Southern California granite.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock around the large block on the steep headwall section, and always clip carefully on the bolted protection. The exposed face offers little shade, so prepare for heat and sunburn risks. The approach trail is uneven—take care to avoid ankle injuries.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length88 feet

Local Tips

Start early or late in the day to avoid harsh sun exposure.

Hydrate well—shade is limited on the climb.

The approach trail is rough; wear supportive footwear.

Consider top-roping Betty Direct for warm-up or cooldown.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating on Betty Does Brownsville feels true to its grade but leans slightly on the stiff side due to the sustained pocket moves on a steep headwall. The initial boulder-style start requires good finger strength, while the slab section challenges balance and footwork. Climbers familiar with Southern California’s sport routes will find it comparable to other pocketed climbs in the area, offering a satisfying technical crux without overwhelming difficulty.

Gear Requirements

The climb uses 10 fixed bolts for protection and finishes at a two-ring Fixe anchor. Bring a standard sport climbing rack with at least 10 quickdraws. Shoes with sticky rubber are essential for the slab and pocket sections.

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Tags

pocket climbing
technical
sport climb
single pitch
California granite
sun exposure
5.9