Betty at West Face - Center, Tahquitz Rock

Idyllwild, California United States
bolt protection
balance moves
short pitch
left-facing corner
crux
traditional gear
anchor bolts
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Betty
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Betty at Tahquitz Rock’s western center face presents a spirited 50-foot trad climb packed with delicate balance moves and tactical gear placements. Perfect for those seeking a brief, focused challenge on classic granite."

Betty at West Face - Center, Tahquitz Rock

Rising sharply off the sun-drenched western slab of Tahquitz Rock, Betty offers a compact and dynamic trad climb that demands both precision and commitment. Beginning on the Switchbacks Direct Start, you’ll encounter a swift journey punctuated by thoughtfully placed bolts that serve as critical security points amidst otherwise gear-reliant protection. The initial moves lead directly to a prominent horizontal crack—a defining feature of this 50-foot route—where the path veers sharply left. From here, the climb requires a careful sidestep upward and to the right, where a second bolt anchors an airy section that tests balance and technique. The crux, characterized by unconventional footwork and subtle weight shifts on the shallow left-facing corner, reveals the climb's playful yet exacting personality.

As you approach the top, a giant flake marks your arrival, its broad surface offering a satisfying stand and an excellent vantage point across the expansive granite walls below. Whether you choose to rappel from the dual bolt ring anchor or push onward onto The Quarry or traverse right to Blankety Blank’s chains, Betty provides versatility for climbers looking to extend their day on Tahquitz’s storied west face.

This route rewards those who come prepared for its mixed protection setup—two bolts punctuate a line that otherwise relies heavily on traditional placements fitting gear up to 1.5 inches in diameter. The rock here demands clean, deliberate placements, as gear opportunities are limited and carefully spaced. Seasonal timing is key; mid-morning to early afternoon brings the best light and warmth to the slab’s west-facing surface, avoiding the chill of early morning shade and the stubborn heat of late afternoon.

The approach is straightforward, dropping climbers off at the heart of Tahquitz’s central slab system within roughly 15 minutes from the main parking area. Trails are well-maintained but rocky, so reliable footwear and measured pacing will make your transition to the base smooth and efficient. The broader climbing zone offers a blend of classic granite faces, features that range from jugs to delicate cracks, and stunning views over the surrounding Coachella Valley.

Safety is always a priority here: consider that the ledges near the anchors are narrow; secure your stance, especially when setting up for rappelling. Rock quality is typically sound, but occasional flakes demand a cautious touch, especially near the crux where balance plays a central role. The route’s short length and moderate pitch count make it ideal for those wanting a brief but engaging test of their trad skills without the extended commitment of longer Tahquitz climbs. Betty doesn’t just ask for strength—it rewards finesse.

Climber Safety

Anchors sit on narrow ledges—secure your stance carefully before setting up ropes. Some flakes near the crux are fragile; test them lightly before weighting. The approach trail is rugged and can be slippery when wet, so proceed with caution in rainy or early morning conditions.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start your climb mid-morning when the west face is warmed by sun but not yet scorching.

Footwear with sticky rubber and excellent edge sensitivity improves balance on slabby sections.

Double-check bolt anchors for rap; they are reliable but exposed on narrow ledges.

Hydrate well and pace yourself; the approach trail is short but steep and rocky.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 grade reflects a moderate challenge with a crux that demands careful balance and foot placement rather than brute strength. Many find the route deceptively technical, with a slightly stiff feel for a 5.9 due to the precision required on the slabby moves and the gear placements. Compared to nearby Tahquitz classics, Betty leans toward a focused test of slab skills rather than sustained endurance.

Gear Requirements

Expect two fixed bolts complementing traditional gear placements up to 1.5 inches. Bring a standard trad rack emphasizing small to medium cams for tricky, well-spaced gear spots, plus quickdraws for clipping bolts and a pair of slings for anchor setup.

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Tags

bolt protection
balance moves
short pitch
left-facing corner
crux
traditional gear
anchor bolts