"Bensalem offers a thrilling 60-foot sport climb that hugs a rising white limestone band above a rumbling sea cave. With eight bolts protecting a sustained 5.10d crux early on, it tests precision and nerve against the backdrop of crashing waves and a precarious Damoclean flake guarding the summit."
Perched on the southern edge of Great Head South, Bensalem offers climbers a striking route carved into the limestone cliffs, where the Atlantic’s rhythm pulses just below. This 60-foot, single-pitch sport climb traces a rising white band of rock, guiding you upward and slightly rightward over a dramatic sea cave. The sound of waves slices through the air, and the spray from the ocean dares you to keep moving higher. The climb’s crux appears early, demanding precise footwork and confident holds before the route steadies into a rhythm of clipped bolts, each a small beacon on this exposed lip.
Eight bolts secure the path, ending at an established belay perched at the cliff’s crown. The final bolt sits just beneath a striking Damoclean flake, a formidable rock feature that commands respect and caution. It warns climbers not to linger or allow anyone directly below during lowers—this flake could shift if dislodged. Yet, the hardest moves come before reaching this precarious landmark, allowing climbers to focus fully on technique and balance.
Getting to Bensalem demands a short but scenic hike where the salt-tinged breeze and calls of seabirds are constant companions. The terrain is rugged with typical coastal scrub, and climbers should expect some slick rock near the base from ocean mist. Bring sturdy shoes with reliable grip. Timing a climb here early in the day or late afternoon provides cooler temperatures and softer light on the route. The wall faces south, catching sun for most of the day but also offering shady pockets along the climb.
Safety hinges on respecting the environment—both natural and human. The fragility of the flake beckons vigilance, while the sea cave below reminds all who climb here of the powerful forces shaping this coast. With proper gear, a measured pace, and attentiveness, Bensalem delivers a rewarding ascent. Whether this is your first outing on Great Head South or one among many, the route's blend of dynamic movement, ocean ambiance, and technical bolts makes it an enduring test.
This cliff route isn’t just about the physical challenge; it's about standing at the edge where rock meets sea, listening to the ocean’s cadence, and feeling the elemental push of nature below. Bensalem rewards well-prepared climbers with unforgettable views and the satisfaction of having mastered a route that is both thrilling and mindful.
The biggest caution on this climb is the large Damoclean flake just below the final bolt. Make sure no one stands beneath the lower-off during descent to prevent injury from potential rockfall. Also, beware ocean spray making holds slick, particularly near the base.
Approach early or late in the day for cooler temperatures and softer light on the route.
Wear shoes with excellent edge grip to counter occasional slickness from ocean spray.
Never stand directly below the lower-off during descent to avoid the risk from the flake.
Check local tide and weather forecasts, as ocean moisture can increase rock slipperiness.
Equipped with eight solid bolts, Bensalem requires standard sport gear including quickdraws and a 60m rope. Pay extra attention near the end where a large flake looms; keep those below clear during lowers to avoid hazards.
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