"Beer for Breakfast offers a bold single-pitch trad climb weaving a rare crack line through a right-facing dihedral on the South Slabs. With a tricky roof crux and thin face climbing above, it demands precise gear placements and steady nerves."
The South Slabs at Greyrock reveal a handful of climbing lines that test your nerve and finesse, and Beer for Breakfast stands out as a gritty, demanding single-pitch trad route that refuses to be overlooked. Situated in the Lower Tier, this climb carves an uncommon crack line that veers sharply right into a right-facing dihedral—a feature unusual here, offering a blend of crack climbing and technical face moves that keeps each section distinct and compelling. From the base, the initial ascent invites you into a steepening groove that demands a focused approach to gear placement, with small nuts growing up to a #3 Camalot fitting snugly into the flaring crack. The climb stakes claim to a small roof near its midpoint, a crux that pushes you to trust minimal holds as you mantle over with deliberate precision. Beyond the crux, the route opens up into a more runout territory—thin face climbing that teeters on the edge of commitment as it angles toward a faint seam in a shallow depression. This seam challenges you with delicate, thin moves rated in the 8+/9 range, where the slightest lapse in focus invites an unsettling sense of exposure. The final stretch proceeds up slabby terrain to arrive at a belay anchored in shared harmony with the neighboring Jazzman (also known as Turdland).
Scenic and raw, the South Slabs’ granite surface breathes a quiet intensity into the climb. The rock’s texture is smooth yet holds subtle friction that demands careful footwork, a tactile conversation between shoe and stone. Breeze from the nearby Poudre Canyon carries an earthy chill, brushing past as you navigate this line etched into Colorado’s rugged landscape.
Though short, Beer for Breakfast encapsulates the essence of trad climbing’s mental game: managing sparse protection, reading the rock precisely, and committing fully through each sequence. It’s best approached with confident rack selection, including small nuts through mid-sized cams, to ensure peace of mind on the trickier sections. The runout nature above the crux calls for a calm head and measured moves, hallmarking it as suitable for those comfortable with airy exposure and technical trad climbing.
Plan your ascent for morning hours when the wall is cool and clear. Footwear with grippy rubber and a precise fit will reward you here, as toe placements can be delicate. Hydration and sun protection are vital, as the South Slabs sit exposed to bright Colorado light during midday. Keep in mind limited gear opportunities above the dihedral; micro cams or stoppers may be the only available protection threading the thin seam, so prepare accordingly.
This route is an invitation to test your crack climbing skills in a raw mountain environment just outside Fort Collins. It offers a punchy dose of adventure with practical challenges that lend a rewarding sense of accomplishment. Whether you’re stepping up from easier trad climbs or looking to sharpen your skills on thin gear placements, Beer for Breakfast delivers a memorable, focused experience on one of Colorado’s lesser-trod granite faces.
The roof section is the crux and demands controlled body positioning on small holds. Above the crux, protection becomes sparse and placements are often micro-sized—fall potential increases substantially here, so ensure you’re comfortable climbing runout terrain. Rock is solid but smooth, increasing slipping risk on wet or dusty days.
Approach early in the day to avoid afternoon sun on the slab sections.
Bring precise shoes with sticky rubber for delicate face moves.
Focus on placing small to medium cams carefully in the dihedral.
Be prepared for runout climbing past the crux; mental calm is key.
Carry a light rack focused on small nuts and cams up to a #3 Camalot. The dihedral accepts solid placements, but above the roof, gear opportunities shrink to micro cams or stoppers in the thin seam. A minimalist rack ensures comfort without excess bulk.
Estes Park
Estes Park
Estes Park
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