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Bed Time: A Smooth Trad Climb at Parking Lot Wall

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
trad
bolt line
single pitch
positive edges
granite
beginner friendly
Length: 35 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Bed Time
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Bed Time is a friendly trad climb that offers a brief but satisfying ascent on Squamish’s granite. With solid edges and a mix of gear placements and bolts, it’s an approachable route that blends straightforward climbing with comfortable protection."

Bed Time: A Smooth Trad Climb at Parking Lot Wall

As the sun filters through towering evergreens and settles softly across the granite face of the Parking Lot Wall in The Smoke Bluffs, Bed Time offers an inviting stretch of trad climbing that balances accessibility with just enough technical demand to keep things engaging. This single-pitch, 35-foot route provides a straightforward yet satisfying ascent, perfect for those easing into trad moves or looking for a reliable warm-up before tackling more challenging lines. The climb opens with relatively simple moves along solid granite, encouraging a mindful rhythm as you approach the first bolt. From there, four closely spaced bolts guide you upward, allowing you to clip deliberately while moving across positive, well-formed edges. The rock here is forgiving but demands attention—edges feel secure beneath your fingers, and ample foot placements invite confident, steady movements.

Bed Time’s protection setup mixes mid-sized gear placements with fixed bolts, striking a balance between traditional placement and sport-style security. The bolted anchor at the top ensures a straightforward setup for your descent or next climb. As you climb, the ambient forest hums around you, with gentle breezes tempting leaves to whisper and birds punctuating the silence with sporadic calls. The granite face feels warm to the touch on sunny days, and light shadows cast by nearby branches add subtle patterns that shift with the sun.

Located in Squamish, British Columbia—a world-renowned climbing destination—this route sits within an accessible area offering more than just quality climbing. The approach is short and manageable, threading through well-marked trails that rise gently enough to preserve energy for the route itself. Arriving early in the day rewards you with soft morning light and cooler temperatures, while afternoon sessions bask the wall in warm sun, making it ideal for climbing through most seasons except the deepest winter months.

For climbers prepping for Bed Time, bring a rack featuring mid-sized cams and nuts, and ensure your quickdraws match the recommended setup for clipping the bolt line smoothly. Footwear with solid edging capability is essential here, as the route relies on positive foot holds you’ll want to engage confidently. Don’t forget water and sun protection, especially on bright afternoons when the wall absorbs heat.

This climb offers a gratifying taste of Squamish’s granite personality without overwhelming complexity, ideal for trad enthusiasts seeking a brief, enjoyable challenge. It’s also an excellent option for groups with mixed ability levels or climbers working on trad confidence. Whether setting out solo or in company, the understated charm of Bed Time invites you to connect with the rock, refine your technique, and soak in the calm pulse of this well-loved climbing area.

Climber Safety

Watch your gear placements near the first bolt, as the initial section relies on a well-placed mid-sized cam; ensure solid clips on the bolts as the climb progresses. Approach and descent are straightforward, but always double-check anchors before lowering.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length35 feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy cooler temperatures and softer light.

Footwear with precise edging will help on smaller footholds.

Stay hydrated and pack sun protection—afternoons can get warm.

Scout the mid-sized gear placements before climbing for smoother runs.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating on Bed Time feels approachable rather than stiff, making it a solid choice for trad climbers sharpening their skills. The bolt line breaks up the climbing well, easing protection concerns. Compared to other Smoke Bluffs routes, this climb leans toward the easier end without sacrificing fun or movement quality.

Gear Requirements

Bring a rack suitable for mid-sized gear along with quickdraws for the four bolts. The bolted anchor simplifies top-rope or rappel setups.

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Tags

trad
bolt line
single pitch
positive edges
granite
beginner friendly