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Bear Paw Middle: A Crisp Californian Sport Climb at Bear Paw Slab

Truckee, California United States
slab
sport
short pitch
small holds
lake tahoe
technical footwork
crux protection
Length: 40 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Bear Paw Middle
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Bear Paw Middle delivers a focused 40-foot slab climb that balances a manageable crux with smooth, deliberate climbing. Perfect for those honing slab technique, it’s a straightforward sport route with reliable protection tucked beside Lake Tahoe’s I-80 corridor."

Bear Paw Middle: A Crisp Californian Sport Climb at Bear Paw Slab

Bear Paw Middle offers climbers a concise but rewarding outing within the Bear Paw Slab area, perfectly suited for those seeking a straightforward yet engaging sport climb near Lake Tahoe. This single-pitch route stretches 40 feet along a clean slab face, demanding technical finesse more than brute strength. The opening moves invite moderate effort, providing a chance to read the rock’s texture and find secure handholds despite the small size of the grips. Approaching the crux, climbers confront a brief spike in difficulty, requiring precise footwork and confident hand placements, especially on the second bolt which protects this squeeze. Beyond this challenge, the route eases onto a broad ledge where tension melts away, allowing the climber to relax and enjoy the surroundings before reaching the two-bolt anchor equipped with Drayco Keylocks.

Despite its modest length, Bear Paw Middle captivates by amplifying the subtle demands of slab climbing. The granite surface is smooth but smartly fractured, encouraging a thoughtful climb where balance and foot placement become the deciding factors. Environmental whispers — the gentle breeze through pine branches, distant calls of birds, and the soft crunch of shoes on granite — keep the atmosphere calm yet alert.

Located in the Bear Paw Slab sector, just off the Indian Springs stretch of California’s I-80 Corridor, this route benefits from an accessible approach. The area’s latitude and longitude (39.32751, -120.56512) ensure reliable GPS navigation toward this peaceful climbing spot. Though the climb itself is brief and approachable for mid-grade climbers, preparation remains essential: sturdy footwear with good edging ability, adequate hydration for the semi-arid climate, and timing ascents to avoid the harsh midday sun on exposed portions of the slab.

This climb is ideal for climbers looking to sharpen slab technique without committing to a lengthy or complex route. The bolt placements offer security with a straightforward protection scheme, helping to build confidence in slab dynamics. Bear Paw Middle complements the wider Bear Paw Slab zone, a well-regarded venue that combines ease of access with granite faces that challenge balance and grace. Those new to the area will find this climb a practical introduction before exploring longer or more vertically demanding lines.

In sum, Bear Paw Middle invites climbers to engage with the rock patiently, rewarding precision and quiet problem-solving. Its clear protection, short length, and moderate difficulty make it a favorite for a quick training session or a tension-free warmup. As the sun moves over the ridge, the route’s southwest-facing slab catches a soft glow, enhancing the mental clarity that slab climbing often demands. When the temperature heats, early morning or late afternoon ascents deliver cooler, more comfortable conditions. This route is a reminder that adventure often lives in the details — a perfect 40-foot slice of Californian climbing that blends ease and challenge with a refreshing touch of nature’s calm energy.

Climber Safety

Watch for the slickness that can develop on granite surfaces warmed by the sun. The ledge at the top provides a safe resting zone, but slipping near the crux could lead to an awkward fall, so commit carefully and trust your feet.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Begin your ascent early to avoid slipping on sun-heated granite.

Wear shoes with precise edging ability for the small holds.

Bring ample water to stay hydrated in the dry environment.

Keep chalk handy—slab climbing demands friction and clean hands.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8, Bear Paw Middle offers a well-defined crux protected by the second bolt, requiring careful foot and hand placement. The grade feels true to its rating, neither soft nor punishing, striking a nice balance for intermediate climbers working on slab techniques. Compared to nearby routes, it’s more approachable than some of the steeper sport lines around Bear Paw Slab, making it a solid confidence builder.

Gear Requirements

Two bolts protect the climb's crux section, with a well-placed two-bolt anchor outfitted with Drayco Keylocks, making gear straightforward and secure.

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Tags

slab
sport
short pitch
small holds
lake tahoe
technical footwork
crux protection