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Bean Oil: A Steep Hand Crack Challenge in Joshua Tree

Twentynine Palms, California United States
hand crack
steep
trad
single pitch
desert
Joshua Tree
granite
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Bean Oil
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Bean Oil offers a steep, focused 50-foot hand crack climb on solid Joshua Tree granite. This single-pitch trad route on a small tower east of the main northeast formations is a prime test of hand crack skills under the desert sun."

Bean Oil: A Steep Hand Crack Challenge in Joshua Tree

Bean Oil stands out as a focused testpiece for climbers seeking a sharp 5.10a hand crack in Joshua Tree’s Jojoba Corridor. Perched on a small but distinct tower just east of the main northeast formations, this single-pitch route offers a pure, concentrated line of climbing on solid, textured rock. From the moment your fingers lock into the crack, the wall demands precision and commitment—each move a measured negotiation with the rock’s subtle juts and edges. The 50-foot climb offers more than vertical terrain; it invites climbers into an intimate exchange with Joshua Tree’s iconic granite, where the sun-soaked surface warms your skin and the surrounding desert breathes quietly with the occasional rustle of dry brush stirred by a gentle breeze.

The route’s character is defined by its steepness and the quality of the hand crack, which challenges you to find the perfect balance between strength and technique. With the desert sky overhead, climbers must prepare not only for the physical effort but for the environment: sun exposure can ramp up quickly, so starting early in the day is wise to avoid overheating. The rock itself rewards those who come equipped with a standard trad rack—protection is straightforward but thoughtful; placements are solid yet require attention to detail to ensure security on the vertical terrain.

Reaching Bean Oil starts with a manageable approach through the Jojoba Corridor, a welcoming slice of Joshua Tree’s desert landscape dotted with live oaks and low scrub. The trail is clear but demands attentive footing as it weaves toward the northeast formations, taking roughly 15-20 minutes from the Live Oak Picnic Area. This relatively short hike ends at the foot of an isolated tower, where the climb rises sharply into the canyon’s stillness.

For climbers keen on a crack-focused challenge that avoids the crowd without sacrificing quality, Bean Oil delivers a satisfying experience. The route’s scale and exposure make it accessible in a half-day session, provided you come prepared with solid hand crack skills and a respect for desert conditions. Post-climb, the view down the corridor shimmers with sunlit granite and whispering wind—the perfect reward to quiet your breath and prepare for your descent.

Climber Safety

Though the protection is generally solid, placements require attention to detail. The exposed position on a small tower means a careful approach for anchors and rappel setup. Plan your descent with caution, as loose gravel near the top can impact footing.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the afternoon desert heat and sun exposure.

Approach via the Live Oak Picnic Area parking for easiest access.

Bring gloves for crack protection if your skin is sensitive.

Check weather and winds—strong gusts can sweep through the corridor.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10a, Bean Oil leans towards a solid, technical hand jam climb with a consistent difficulty throughout. The grade feels true but demands precise technique—expect a crux near mid-height that challenges hand strength and footwork. Compared to other Joshua Tree crack climbs, it’s a sharp but manageable goal for intermediate trad climbers familiar with hand cracks.

Gear Requirements

A standard trad rack suits this climb well. The crack accepts a range of hand-sized cams and nuts, with solid placements along the wall requiring careful evaluation. No fixed gear, so bring your full rack and double up on hand sizes.

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Tags

hand crack
steep
trad
single pitch
desert
Joshua Tree
granite