"Beamer Up Scotty is a demanding trad climb perched on Buick Rocks that tests crack climbing skills with its steep jams and careful footwork. With accessible approach and solid protection, it’s a rewarding single pitch for those wanting a sharp 5.9 challenge near Lyons."
Set against the rugged backdrop of the St. Vrain Canyons near Lyons, Colorado, Beamer Up Scotty offers climbers a direct, no-nonsense crack climb that tests both technique and resolve. Located just steps left of Pooh Belly on the Unknown Face sector at Buick Rocks, this single-pitch trad route stands out for its steep, finger-jamming crack that demands precise hand and foot placements. The rock here is solid but requires attention, especially as the feet can feel uncertain on some looser sections near the upper buttress.
The approach to the climb is accessible, threading through the familiar Longmont Reservoir area and following the North Fork of the St. Vrain River. Early morning light cuts sharply into the canyon, highlighting the vertical features and offering a cool start in warmer months. Expect the climb to push your comfort zone around the 5.9 mark; while historical guides peg it at 5.8, the crux sequences challenge climbers with a compact but gritty resistance.
Protection mostly runs standard, with the route accommodating a balanced rack including a few larger pieces for the wider sections. This balance in gear keeps the risk manageable and encourages a confident ascent. After topping out the 50-foot pitch, the descent is straightforward, rewarding climbers with an easy walk-off that winds back through the foothills. This blend of climbing intensity and practical access makes Beamer Up Scotty a compelling option for climbers seeking a technical notch near Boulder without spending hours in approach.
Bring sturdy footwear with enough grip to navigate the loose rock subtly affecting the upper transitions. Hydration is key here, especially on sunnier days when the canyon walls reflect heat into the approach and trail. Start early to catch the cool shadows cast along the north-facing wall, which holds shade longer into the morning—a valuable edge for warmer seasonal climbs.
This route fits a niche for trad climbers ready to engage with an often overlooked but rewarding feature in a well-traveled climbing pocket. It's a solid step up in difficulty compared to some adjacent classics, offering a straight crack to lock into and a taste of quality St. Vrain granite. Whether you’re brushing up on crack technique or chasing a sharp 5.9 to add to your list, Beamer Up Scotty challenges attention to detail and composure, making it a memorable pitch in the Colorado climbing scene.
The route features some sections with loose footholds near the second buttress. Take care while placing feet to avoid slips, and verify all pro placements especially on larger cams to avoid gear pulling under load.
Approach early morning for cooler shade on the climb.
Wear shoes with good sticky rubber for subtle loose rock sections.
Double-check larger cams to ensure secure placements on wider sections.
Hydrate well before and during climb due to sun exposure on the approach.
Bring a standard trad rack including a larger-sized piece to protect the wider crack sections. Expect solid placements but be mindful of occasional loose feet near the upper buttress.
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