HomeClimbingBD Left Inside

BD Left Inside: Technical Lines on the Big Dihedral

June Lake, California United States
positive holds
chockstone crux
technical crack
single pitch
eastern sierra
granite
bolt protected
Length: 85 ft
Type: Sport, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
BD Left Inside
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"BD Left Inside delivers a challenging 85-foot single pitch on the Big Dihedral’s granite face. It combines technical crack climbing with positive holds and a defining crux near a chockstone, perfect for climbers seeking precision and sustained movement in California’s Eastern Sierra."

BD Left Inside: Technical Lines on the Big Dihedral

BD Left Inside offers a focused climb that demands both precision and patience on the eastern Sierra’s rugged granite faces. Here, the wall stretches 85 feet with a single pitch packed full of technical movement on positive holds. Beginning from the base platform of the Big Dihedral, perched on the right side of a chimney nestled in the giant inside corner, this route shares much of its early sequence with nearby climbs. Yet its distinct finishing moves push closer to the center top V-slot of the imposing Big Dihedral, inviting climbers to engage with a steadily increasing challenge.

The start demands careful attention, featuring a tricky 5.11a move embedded in the lower section. Experienced climbers will find a horizontal traverse left across an overlapping roof—testing body positioning before shifting into a sharp inverted layback sequence. The climbing follows cracks that guide you upward as the line splits, veering right for a gentler pitch leading to a left-facing corner beneath a significant chockstone feature. This corner holds the crux, requiring finesse and tactical footwork to navigate around the tight bulge and past the chockstone.

For those seeking variations, subtle alternate finishes offer options: from the bolt line fork, a ledge traverse right leads to anchors atop neighboring routes SouthEast Crack and BD Right Crack, continuing to the precipice's edge. Alternatively, pushing higher along a vague ridge accesses a belay anchor positioned at the gentle top ledge of the Big Dihedral. This upper finish involves delicate moves past an inverted V-slot and a bulge protected by clever gear placements, including slings around a bush’s flexible trunks.

Protection consists mainly of intermediate bolts set from the base to lower anchors, with additional bolts for reaching the higher belay. Stainless steel hardware installed in 2018 offers reliability, though the bolts near the crux are closely spaced to guard a physically demanding section just above a broad ledge. Leaders should prepare for some challenging clipping stances here, with the option to bypass a bolt for fluid movement. Given the area's relative newness to climbing, the rock can still reveal loose flakes, so it’s essential that belayers and bystanders maintain safe distances to avoid hazard from falling debris.

Access to BD Left Inside lies within the 9-Chouinard sector, part of the June Lake cluster on California’s eastern Sierra. Approaching involves hiking moderate terrain to the base of the Big Dihedral, where ample platform space allows for solid anchor setups. The descent calls for rappelling off the established two-bolt anchor, although an additional rappel station with easier rope management exists 15 to 20 feet to the right of the higher belay. The upper anchor is not ideal for rappels, as rope jamming risks are elevated there.

Climbers stepping onto BD Left Inside should come armed with a keen eye for subtle crack sequences and a willingness to work through sections still uncovering their full character. Its rating hovers around 5.9, but with a stiff crux near the mid-route and some loose rock, the challenge feels firm and rewarding rather than lightly graded. In context, this climb offers a hands-on experience on Sierra granite that respects tradition while leaving room for exploration and personal beta.

Preparation tips include using footwear with good edging capability to handle the technical crack and positive holds, carrying gear suitable for sport leads with intermediate-sized cams or nuts for the occasional natural placement, and timing your climb to avoid hot afternoon sun reflective off the granite surfaces. Hydration is crucial, and approach logistics demand awareness of the remote setting within a protected climbing zone that still sees limited traffic.

BD Left Inside strikes a practical balance—scrupulous in its demands yet inviting in its flow. It promises a chance to engage deeply with the Sierra’s vertical contours alongside a close community of climbers carving routes into this evolving landscape.

Climber Safety

The rock remains somewhat loose in spots owing to limited previous ascents, so it's important to stand well back from beneath the climber to minimize risk from falling debris. Additionally, the closely spaced bolts near the crux may force difficult clipping stances that require confidence and experience.

Route Details

TypeSport, TR
Pitches1
Length85 feet

Local Tips

Wear climbing shoes with precise edging to negotiate technical cracks and positive holds.

Carry standard sport climbing draws plus a few small cams or nuts for variations and protection near the bulge.

Avoid the upper belay anchor for rappelling, as rope jams are common and it's not designed for lowering.

Stay clear of the fall zone below the route as rockfall is more likely due to the area’s relatively fresh climbing traffic.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating here reflects a solid intermediate challenge with a crux centered around a left-facing corner and chockstone that demands precise movement and strength. While generally consistent with local routes, this climb feels slightly stiff in sections due to the physical clipping sequences and the nature of the rock, offering a gratifying test for climbers comfortable at this grade.

Gear Requirements

Nine intermediate bolts protect the route from the base platform through to the lower anchor, supplemented by two additional bolts near the higher belay. Stainless steel 3/8 inch bolts installed in 2018 ensure solid placements, though clipping near the crux requires careful positioning due to closely spaced bolts. For top-roping setups and detailed anchor placements, refer to the 9-Chouinard sector resources.

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Tags

positive holds
chockstone crux
technical crack
single pitch
eastern sierra
granite
bolt protected