"B.C.'s Ouch Chimney delivers sustained and varied trad climbing on solid rock along a shallow slot bathed in all-day sun. This single-pitch route offers a practical challenge framed by the rugged desert views of Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks."
B.C.'s Ouch Chimney presents a compelling blend of technical variety and straightforward trad climbing, set on the sun-drenched expanse of the Sunshine Face at Suicide Rock. Despite what the name suggests, chimneying is minimal here. Instead, the route threads through a broad, shallow slot offering nearly continuous climbing over 150 feet of solid, reliable rock. This single-pitch adventure demands steady footwork and thoughtful gear placement as climbers navigate a series of moves that maintain your focus without overwhelming complexity.
The approach sets the tone: reaching the base requires negotiating a short section of 5.5 scrambling that many opt to tackle unroped, a taste of the movement to come. Once on the route, the climb unfolds in the warm light of California’s sun, which bathes the wall from dawn until dusk, making it an excellent choice for a cool day or early-season outing when warmth is welcome.
The rock quality here is notably good, with a pleasing texture that rewards steady jamming and subtle balance. Protection is straightforward but demands a well-rounded rack featuring wired nuts to fit the variety of cracks and slots. The gear placements can be snug, and the continuous nature of the climb offers few rests, requiring steady focus and efficient movement.
For those looking to sharpen their crack climbing skills or enjoy a solid trad route without extensive runouts, Ouch Chimney strikes the right balance. Its accessibility combined with a moderate 5.9 rating makes it ideal for climbers stepping into more sustained crack work or those seeking a reliable pitch in the famed Suicide Rock area. Surrounded by the rugged beauty of the San Jacinto Mountains, the route’s position on the left side of Sunshine Face provides sweeping views of the surrounding desert canyons and valley below, adding a scenic backdrop to the physical challenge.
Planning your ascent means preparing for the sun and heat, so bring adequate water and sun protection. Stable footwear with solid edging will assist on the approach and transition into the climb. Arriving early in the day can provide cooler temperatures and fewer crowds, enhancing the overall experience.
B.C.'s Ouch Chimney is more than a straightforward climb; it’s a hands-on school for practical trad skills wrapped in an inviting package where nature’s elements play an active role—sun warming the face, the rock gripping your hands, and the open slot daring you onward. This route is a rewarding mid-grade outing that embraces the both the effort and the environment with clear eyes and steady hands.
While the rock quality is generally good, protection placements can feel tight and require deliberate placement of wired nuts. The approach scramble, though short, requires careful footing; avoid unroped attempts if uncomfortable at 5.5 moves.
Expect continuous climbing with few rests; stay focused on protecting each move.
Start early to beat the heat—this route basks in sun all day long.
Approach includes a short 5.5 scramble that many climbers do unroped; prepare accordingly.
Wear sturdy shoes with good edging for the approach and route transition.
A standard trad rack with a full range of wired nuts is essential here. The slots and cracks demand precise placements; a sharp eye for gear size and snug fitting pro will keep you confident through sustained sections.
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