HomeClimbingBattle of the Bulge

Battle of the Bulge at The Dome, Redwood Coast

Eureka, California United States
sport climbing
roof
smearing
redwood coast
short pitch
technical moves
beginner-friendly
Length: 45 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Battle of the Bulge
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A focused 45-foot sport climb carving its way beneath a dramatic roof, Battle of the Bulge demands finesse on smears and power through a bulging capstone. Set against the coastal redwoods, it offers rewarding exposure and approachable protection for climbers eyeing a solid 5.9 testpiece."

Battle of the Bulge at The Dome, Redwood Coast

Battle of the Bulge offers a compelling single-pitch sport climb that challenges your balance and technique on the rugged Redwood Coast's weathered stone. The route starts with delicate smears across small incut holds, demanding steady footwork on somewhat insecure terrain. As you edge leftward up a distinctive corner, the rock leans into you beneath a pronounced roof, inviting both mental and physical commitment. Moving steadily up and slightly right, you’ll find yourself climbing onto the roof’s edge, where a few well-placed holds help you power through the bulge itself. The experience is hands-on: the stone feels raw under your fingers, the air fresh with coastal breeze, and the vastness of towering redwoods looming below adds quiet grandeur to each move. This climb rewards careful route reading and controlled movement rather than brute force.

The protection is straightforward, with six well-spaced bolts and a two-bolt anchor equipped with rappel rings. There’s an advanced option for those who prefer to lower in rather than lead: rap rings situated about 20 feet above the anchors offer a way to descend safely, accessed from the summit. At 45 feet in length, this climb strikes a balance—short enough to be accessible for a focused session, yet packed with enough technical sections to keep you engaged. The rock's rough texture and natural features complement the sport climbing style here, creating a route that simultaneously encourages strategic placement and fluid movement.

Located within the greater Dome and Split Rock area, Cold Springs delivers an outpost of quality climbing along California's Redwood Coast. Climbers appreciate this spot for its mix of solitude and exposure, surrounded by dense, green giants pushing skyward. Approach trails are manageable and close enough to the coastline to let in salty sea air, but still offer the silence of forest canopy overhead. As the sun moves through the sky, the climb benefits from partial shading—best tackled during morning or late afternoon to avoid overheating on the rock’s surface.

Success on Battle of the Bulge comes down to more than just physical ability: preparation matters. Sturdy climbing shoes with sticky rubber will give confidence on the subtle smears, and staying hydrated keeps focus sharp for the roof sequence where rests are limited. Because the climb features a few precarious sections before reaching secure holds, maintaining calm under pressure is key. Whether you’re aiming to push your 5.9 limit or enjoy a memorable sport climb framed by towering redwoods and ocean air, this route offers a satisfying partnership of challenge and reward.

For those planning the trip, be prepared for variable weather typical along the northern California coast. The area sees mist and cooler temperatures even in summer, so layered clothing is smart. The approach is a short trek over gentle terrain, but carrying water and sun protection is still necessary. If you want to avoid crowding, weekdays or off-peak seasons provide a quieter experience. Climbing here connects you to a landscape that feels alive—the rock demands your respect, while the surrounding forest and sea air inspire a deep breath and steady heart. This is climbing with nature leaning in, daring you to move carefully, decisively, and with intention.

Climber Safety

Watch your footing on the initial smears—these small holds can feel insecure. The roof pitch requires controlled movement to avoid pump. Approach the higher rap rings only if you have solid rappelling skills, and always double-check your anchors before descent.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length45 feet

Local Tips

Best climbed in the morning or late afternoon to avoid overheating on exposed rock.

Use climbing shoes with solid edging and sticky rubber for the small incuts and smears.

Bring layered clothing—coastal weather can shift quickly between sun and mist.

If leading is intimidating, consider lowering from the higher anchor and rappelling down.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated a straightforward 5.9, this climb leans slightly toward the technical side due to required delicate smears and a physical roof section. The grade feels fair, with the crux at the roof bulge presenting a moderate challenge that can test climbers transitioning from beginner to intermediate. Compared to other 5.9 routes in the area, Battle of the Bulge demands more precise footwork and body positioning rather than raw strength.

Gear Requirements

6 bolts provide secure protection along the route, finishing with a two-bolt anchor featuring rappel rings. For those preferring to lower in, rap rings 20 feet above the anchors can be accessed from the summit for a controlled descent.

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Tags

sport climbing
roof
smearing
redwood coast
short pitch
technical moves
beginner-friendly