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Bat Wings and Blood: A Bold Sport Climb at Voodoo Wall

Big Bear Lake, California United States
sport climbing
patina edges
single pitch
technical footwork
California granite
moderate length
sunny exposure
Length: 45 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Bat Wings and Blood
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Bat Wings and Blood delivers a short but exacting sport climb on Voodoo Wall’s grit granite. With subtle patina edges demanding focused footwork, this route rewards precision in a sunny, scenic California setting."

Bat Wings and Blood: A Bold Sport Climb at Voodoo Wall

Bat Wings and Blood offers an invigorating 45-foot sport climb set along the jagged façade of Voodoo Wall in California’s San Bernardino Mountains. The route challenges climbers with slick patina edges and delicate footwork that demand both focus and finesse. As you step onto the rock, the sun-warmed granite reveals its character—grainy and solid, but with subtle slickness where the patina has smoothed out over time. The crux requires precise foot placement on small holds that seem to dare you to trust your balance.

Located within The Coven sector, known for its striking vertical lines and compact climbs, this single-pitch route draws climbers seeking a short but intense test of sport climbing skill. Despite its moderate length, the wall rewards steady movement and technique over brute force. The limited protection of four bolts and a bolted anchor invites a confident approach, reminding you to clip early and trust the hardware while keeping your rope management tidy.

Ascend under the clear, expansive California sky with views stretching over the rough terrain of Big Bear North. The sun heats the rock through the morning and early afternoon, making the best climbing window mid-morning to early afternoon when the wall is fully lit but not yet glaringly hot. Cooler seasons bring ideal friction and fewer sweat-soaked holds, so plan your trip when temperatures are moderate.

Approaching the wall involves a short but rugged hike from the main trailhead, cutting through pine-studded slopes and scrub brush typical of the San Bernardino wilderness. The approach rewards you with quick immersion into a wild setting where the sounds of birds and rustling trees underscore the sense of getting away from it all, even while you remain within reach of Big Bear Lake.

The climb’s crux lies in the subtlety of small edges and patinated holds, where delicate footwork and smooth body positioning beat raw power. For protection, climbers rely on the four well-spaced bolts and a bolted anchor. It’s wise to use the anchor from the adjacent route The Sceptre, slightly left, to avoid unnecessary rope drag and rope thrashing.

Whether you’re warming up for longer routes in the area or seeking a focused challenge, Bat Wings and Blood blends an enjoyable technical climb with the rugged beauty of the San Bernardino Mountains. Remember to come prepared with sticky shoes, a moderate rack for quickdraws, and awareness of the regional weather. With its combination of solid rock and precise moves, it makes a memorable stop for climbers who appreciate technique-driven sport climbs in a scenic outdoor setting.

Climber Safety

Be cautious with your rope management to avoid thrashing, especially since the anchors on this route are limited. Using the adjacent route’s anchors reduces rope drag. The rock is generally solid, but patina areas can be slippery when wet or dusty—check conditions before climbing.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length45 feet

Local Tips

Clip the first bolt early to stay secure on the delicate edges.

Use sticky climbing shoes for optimum grip on patina surfaces.

Plan your climb for mid-morning to early afternoon to avoid excessive heat.

Bring quickdraws for all four bolts and a personal anchor sling for the rappel.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10a, Bat Wings and Blood sits comfortably in the moderate difficulty range but challenges climbers with its specific crux on small patina edges. The grade feels fair, but climbers need precision more than strength, making it a good climb for those honing technique. Compared to other climbs at The Coven, it’s a solid introduction to the area’s style without overwhelming complexity.

Gear Requirements

Four bolts protect this route along with a bolted anchor at the top. While the anchors on Bat Wings and Blood are solid, it's preferable to use the bolted anchors on the neighboring The Sceptre to minimize rope drag.

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Tags

sport climbing
patina edges
single pitch
technical footwork
California granite
moderate length
sunny exposure