HomeClimbingBastard Direct

Bastard Direct: A Compact Trad Challenge in Laurentians

Val-David, Canada
finger crack
overhang
single bolt
bolted rap station
quebec granite
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Bastard Direct
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Bastard Direct is a focused single-pitch trad climb in Quebec’s Laurentians, blending technical crack moves with tactical gear placements. With just the right level of challenge, it offers a sharp dose of granite climbing in a scenic, accessible setting."

Bastard Direct: A Compact Trad Challenge in Laurentians

Bastard Direct stands as an engaging one-pitch trad climb in the Laurentians’ rugged expanse near Val-David, Quebec. This 100-foot route offers a sharp blend of technical moves and tactical gear placements, set against a backdrop where grey granite asserts itself through clean cracks and corners. The ascent begins with moderate climbing past horizontal breaks, leading you toward a distinctive left-facing overhanging corner. Here, a perfect slot awaits the .4 Camalot—a critical piece that anchors your protection and steadies your approach to the crux. The rock demands precise footwork and controlled power as you surge through the overhanging dièdre’s demanding moves, pushing past a small overhang that tests your balance and grip.

Continuing upward, you’ll encounter a second corner with equally committed sequences, drawing you up to a small ledge that offers a brief moment to recalibrate. From this ledge, a committed step to the left brings you face-to-face with a lone bolt, your final protection before the top-out. The route concludes at a bolted rappel station, a safe and reliable endpoint after the climb’s compact intensity.

The granite here in the Laurentians feels solid under hand and foot, sharp enough to challenge but clean enough to avoid unnecessary scrapes. The route is ideal for climbers looking to refine crack climbing technique — it demands attention to finger-size protection and offers a chance to test endurance and mental focus in short bursts. As the climb unfolds high above forested slopes, you are surrounded by the ambient calls of the wilderness, with wind filtering through the trees and distant wildlife adding a hushed soundtrack to your effort.

Approaching Bastard Direct is straightforward but requires preparedness for a brief approach across uneven terrain near Staircase sector. Good footwear and hydration are musts, especially since the climb’s intensity leaves little room for fatigue. The rock tends to dry quickly, making mid-morning ascents favorable. Weather in the Laurentians can shift rapidly, so pack layers and keep an eye on forecasts to avoid sudden chills or rain.

For those seeking a compact trad route with a solid mix of technical challenge and tactical gear placements, Bastard Direct offers an inviting test. Its accessibility near Val-David and reliable protection make it a standout choice for eager trad climbers aiming to sharpen skills without committing to multi-pitch undertakings. It’s a climb that rewards precise movement and calm decision-making, set within an approachable yet rugged Quebec climbing landscape.

Climber Safety

While protection is generally solid with finger-sized cams and a #2 Camalot, the left-trending overlap requires careful movement and attention to gear placements. The lone bolt near the top is well-placed, but the final moves demand controlled balance to avoid falls onto possibly less secure placements.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Start climbs mid-morning for dry rock and comfortable temperature.

Wear shoes with solid edging for the technical corners and small overlaps.

Bring hydration—even on a short route, the physical intensity is notable.

Check weather forecasts closely for sudden changes common in the Laurentians.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating here is well-earned but approachable for climbers comfortable with crack climbing and moderate overhangs. The route’s crux centers on physically demanding moves through the left-facing corner, where precise technique and calm gear placements are crucial. Compared to other Laurentians climbs, Bastard Direct offers a sharply focused effort without excessive runouts, making it feel both solid and rewarding.

Gear Requirements

Bring finger-sized protection and at least one #2 Camalot for key placements. The route includes one bolt near the top and finishes at a bolted rappel station for safety.

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Tags

finger crack
overhang
single bolt
bolted rap station
quebec granite