HomeClimbingBart's Way

Bart's Way: A Classic Finger Crack in Lumpy Ridge

Estes Park, Colorado United States
finger crack
traditional gear
single pitch
technical crack
Lumpy Ridge
Colorado climbing
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Bart's Way
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Bart’s Way delivers a focused single pitch of crack climbing on clean Colorado granite, blending delicate finger jams with a demanding crux pod section. This route invites climbers of all levels seeking to polish their technique within the iconic Lumpy Ridge landscape."

Bart's Way: A Classic Finger Crack in Lumpy Ridge

Bart's Way on Isis Buttress offers an engaging introduction to traditional crack climbing with a distinctive blend of finger jams and laybacks on solid Colorado granite. Located in the heart of Lumpy Ridge within the Estes Park Valley, this single-pitch climb extends roughly 80 feet through a clean, square-cut crack that challenges climbers to navigate the nuances of hand and finger placements. The route’s character shines most through its technical slots—where subtle movements and body positioning matter more than brute force. Approaching the crux, climbers encounter a pod or "mouth" feature requiring an assertive undercling technique. Those who commit confidently roll through this section with surprising ease, while less aggressive tactics invite offwidth-like groveling that pushes the grade beyond its nominal 5.9 rating.

The granite here has a commanding presence, cool and textured, inviting a tactile dialogue between climber and rock. Shadows shift with the afternoon sun, highlighting the crack's edges and offering clear holds for fingers and cams alike. The climb finishes on a ledge stocked with secure anchors, a comfortable perch from which to assess the descent—a straightforward 60-foot rappel. Although modest in length, Bart’s Way demands attention to detail and gear placement, rewarding those who enjoy careful, sustained crack climbing.

Protection relies primarily on a standard rack catering to small to medium nuts and finger-sized cams. The rock is trustworthy, but the protection demands respect and familiarity with traditional gear, as placements can be subtle and require precision.

Access to Isis Buttress is straightforward, with a moderate approach through well-marked trails within the popular Estes Park outdoor complex. The walk-in is relatively short, taking about 15-20 minutes, winding through forested sections that hum with alpine freshness before the granite greet climbers with its stark, inviting form.

Bart’s Way honors Bart Calkins’ legacy—his distinctive climbing style and philosophy echo in the route’s demands for technique and adaptability. This climb offers more than just physical challenge; its historical and personal significance enrich the experience for those who seek a connection to the climbing community past and present.

For climbers ready to sharpen finger crack skills or add a classic Lumpy Ridge route to their tick list, Bart’s Way provides an accessible yet rewarding test. Bring steady hands, a thoughtful rack, and a measured approach to savor every move on this quietly compelling climb.

Climber Safety

Beware of the pod crux area where the crack widens, as poor foot or hand placement here can quickly increase difficulty. Protection is generally reliable but requires careful placement; loose or ill-fitting gear can lead to dangerous runouts. Also, watch your approach footing—some loose scree lies near base trails.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Brush the crack thoroughly before climbing to maintain clean holds.

Approach the pod crux with a bold undercling to simplify moves.

Ensure your rack includes finger-sized cams and small nuts for optimal protection.

Start your climb mid-morning to benefit from balanced sun and shade on Isis Buttress.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 grade on Bart’s Way is fairly accurate though it leans a bit stiff for the grade if you stick close to gear near the crux pod. Adopting the recommended aggressive undercling technique reduces the apparent difficulty, making it feel more like a solid 5.8+ for seasoned crack climbers. Compared to nearby routes on Lumpy Ridge, it’s a moderate challenge with a technical crux that rewards precision.

Gear Requirements

Standard Lumpy Ridge rack focusing on small to medium nuts and finger-sized cams is ideal for secure placements. The crack favors precise gear placement due to its narrow, square-cut nature.

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Tags

finger crack
traditional gear
single pitch
technical crack
Lumpy Ridge
Colorado climbing