"Bank Note Blues is a rewarding 90-foot trad climb in Joshua Tree that tests your offwidth skills with sustained, gritty climbing. Perfect for climbers aiming to sharpen technique while soaking in raw desert surroundings."
Bank Note Blues stands out as a solid test of offwidth climbing nestled within the rugged contours of Joshua Tree National Park’s Wonderland of Rocks. This single-pitch 90-foot climb throws you right into a sustained offwidth section that demands commitment and technique more than brute force. From the outset, the route presents a somewhat rough and slightly dirty lower section, requiring a few moves to clean and settle into the groove. As you gain height, the crack widens and opens up into a satisfying stretch where body tension and finesse fuse in a rhythmic upward push.
The upper part of Bank Note Blues eases off into a more featured crack, offering welcome relief and a chance to breathe after wrestling through the offwidth below. This top section presents enjoyable hand jams and finger locks that contrast nicely with the earlier grind. Protection placement keeps you engaged throughout; the gear is generally solid but calls for a creative eye, particularly within the offwidth where standard cams must be supplemented by doubles in sizes .75 through 2 Camalot to confidently protect sustained moves.
Anchors are bolted at the top, but there’s a neat backup option using larger cams (3.5 and 4 Camalot) if the bolts are taken—this occasionally happens when climbers are on the adjacent classic Bedtime for Democracy route. The descent off the back side requires rappelling, so bringing your rope and having solid rappel experience is essential.
Located within the northern stretches of the Wonderland of Rocks, this climb offers more than just a physical challenge; the surrounding desert landscape washes over you with sharp sunlight casting long shadows across granite domes. Early morning ascents benefit from filtered shade, while midday sees the rock warm under California’s crisp desert air. Expect light winds to snake through the granite corridors, lending occasional relief during more strenuous moves.
While Bank Note Blues doesn’t have the polished allure of some higher-profile Joshua Tree lines, it rewards climbers eager to build and refine offwidth skills against a realistic and gritty backdrop. This is a route for those ready to embrace a bit of the park's raw edge without sacrificing safety or quality. Approach-wise, the trail from North Wonderland is straightforward, crossing classic desert terrain dotted with twisted junipers and sparse pinyon. It’s a short hike, but the arid environment calls for careful hydration planning, sturdy climbing shoes with supportive edging, and a mindset ready to engage this homegrown challenge.
In the end, Bank Note Blues offers more than a climb; it invites a conversation with the rock—each jam and slide telling you something about balance, persistence, and measured progress. Whether you’re honing technique or seeking a memorable offwidth in one of California’s premier climbing destinations, this route deserves a spot on your radar.
The route’s bottom section can be a little dirty, so watch for loose debris and scrub the landing carefully before committing to moves. The rappel off the back side requires solid anchor setup and rope management; ensure you have the appropriate gear and skills to descend safely.
Start early to catch morning shade and cooler rock temperatures.
Pack plenty of water—desert air dries you out quickly even on mild days.
Practice your offwidth technique beforehand; this route is sustained and requires solid jams.
Bring a rope long enough for a single 90-foot rappel down the back side.
Bring a standard rack of cams with an emphasis on doubles from .75 to 2 Camalot to protect the sustained offwidth section. No nuts are necessary. Bolt anchors top out the route, but larger cams (3.5 and 4 Camalot) provide an alternate anchor option if bolts are occupied.
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