"Bandito presents a classic finger-to-fist crack climb on Table Mountain’s granite walls near Sonora Pass, blending approachable technical moves with steady protection. Its single pitch provides a clear, comfortable trad experience in a stunning Sierra setting."
Bandito offers climbers a focused and rewarding experience along Table Mountain’s rugged granite face, easily reached from the well-known Grotto crag near Sonora Pass Highway. This crack climb initiates with a tight finger crack that gradually broadens into an accommodating fist crack as you push upwards, providing a natural rhythm that balances technical finesse with relaxed movement. A steady supply of solid foot placements and comfortable rests breaks up the vertical effort, inviting climbers to steady their breathing and engage fully with the rock’s texture beneath their hands. The route’s single pitch covers 50 feet, an ideal length to test trad fundamentals without demanding full-day commitment.
The setting is quietly wild, with crisp Sierra air carrying subtle pine and granite dust. Table Mountain’s rock has an honest grit, shaped by seasons of sun and snow, offering reliable friction that enhances confidence on the crack. Protection is straightforward: your rack should range from small cams up to four inches, all of which slot securely into the crack’s widening profile. Anchor construction at the top is straightforward, allowing for a safe and simple belay or lowering.
Approach trails begin at The Grotto, a well-trod starting point known for its manageable 15-minute walk that shifts from shaded forest patches into more open, granite-strewn slopes. This brief hike primes you with the anticipation of the climb ahead without draining energy reserves. Access comes with a manageable elevation gain and minimal technical trail obstacles, making Bandito accessible to climbers comfortable with trad rack placement and moderate exposure.
Bandito’s moderate 5.8 rating offers a gratifying challenge that fits nicely between beginner-friendly and stepping into more serious crack discipline. The climb’s flow benefits from steady technique rather than wild dynos or strenuous overhangs. For those familiar with the nearby AC Devil Dog route, Bandito’s proximity allows comparison: it leans toward smoother movement and less sustained physical pumping, making it an excellent choice for refining crack climbing skills or warming up for longer days on Table Mountain.
Ideal climbing times span late spring through early fall, when the wall basks in morning sun but gains afternoon shade, granting cooler conditions during warmer days. Sierra weather can turn abruptly, so packing layers and monitoring forecasts is essential. A reliable pair of finger-friendly climbing shoes and gloves designed for crack climbing will enhance comfort and protection on this route.
After topping out, descent is uncomplicated. Climbers can downclimb or rappel using the fixed anchor, though scouting the moves before descent is advised to avoid unnecessary slips on the rough granite. As with all outdoor climbs in this area, staying alert to sudden weather shifts and ensuring all gear is well maintained will increase safety and enjoyment.
Bandito stands as a practical yet engaging trad line that rewards attention to technique, gear management, and respect for the mountain’s steady, unassuming challenge. It invites you to connect with the rock, the rhythm of protection placements, and the open air at elevation—elements that together make for a satisfying day on the wall at Table Mountain.
Watch for loose rock near the base and stay alert to Sierra weather changes. The descent anchor is sound but double-check slings and gear before rappelling. Downclimb cautiously as some footholds may be crumbly.
Start early to take advantage of morning sun and avoid afternoon heat.
Bring finger-friendly climbing shoes for better grip in the narrow crack sections.
Pack layers; mountain weather can change quickly even in summer.
Approach trail is short but rocky—sturdy hiking shoes help conserve energy.
A rack ranging from small cams to four-inch pieces is essential, with all gear placing securely in the widening crack. Anchors at the top are straightforward and reliable for rappel or lowering.
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