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Bald-Headed Men

Los Angeles, California United States
sport climb
bulge crux
stemming slab
single pitch
walk off descent
California climbing
Length: 60 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Bald-Headed Men
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Bald-Headed Men is a gritty 60-foot sport climb in Angeles National Forest that tests your precision on edges and knobs as you work through a bulge and finish on a steep stemming slab. Perfect for climbers aiming to refine technique with focused protection and a walk-off descent."

Bald-Headed Men

Bald-Headed Men is a sharp, focused climb tucked into the rugged eastern wall of Corvus Crack within California’s Angeles National Forest. Starting midway in a narrow slot, the route offers an immediate hands-on experience with chunky holds that invite confident scrambling before confronting a challenging bulge. This steep section demands precise edge work and careful body positioning, rewarding climbers who lean into the route’s natural rhythm. Beyond the bulge, the path opens into a steep slab that encourages stemming movement as you push upward toward a solid anchor.

This single-pitch, 60-foot sport climb balances accessibility with just enough technical variety to keep your senses alert. The protection consists of six bolts with a two-bolt anchor, though lowering isn’t an option here, so be prepared to downclimb or walk off when you finish. The rock’s texture underfoot and hand offers reliable friction, but the wide groove's contours challenge you to stay deliberate, especially on the slab where footing can feel less secure.

Approaching the route, you’ll find yourself in the heart of Texas Canyon, a section of the Angeles National Forest that blends desert-like ruggedness with forested patches. The climb sits at about 34.5 degrees north, -118.4 degrees west, a location that benefits from early morning shade on the eastern wall, making spring and fall ideal seasons to avoid the intense California sun. The setting feels quietly intense, a reminder of the raw wilderness at the edge of the sprawling Los Angeles Basin.

Gear up with a standard sport rack, and be sure your shoes grant you solid edge control—this climb rewards precision on smaller footholds. Water, sun protection, and timing around cooler parts of the day will enhance your experience here. While the approach is manageable, the rock’s features and the protected bolts give you the confidence to focus on movement, making Bald-Headed Men a satisfying outing for climbers looking to sharpen their sport skills in classic Southern California terrain.

Climber Safety

Since the anchor isn’t set up for lowering, climbers must be ready for a controlled downclimb or a walk-off scramble. Pay close attention to footing on the slab, where rock can be less featured. Approach with caution as dry terrain can be slippery and snap branches may pose minor hazards.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Start early to beat the heat—eastern wall gets sun mid-morning.

Wear shoes with reliable edging for the slab section.

Bring extra water; the approach crosses dry, exposed terrain.

Be prepared to downclimb carefully as there's no rappel option.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8, Bald-Headed Men feels true to grade with a distinct bulge crux that demands solid edge and knob control. The slab after the bulge requires steady stemming and balance rather than brute strength. Compared to nearby routes in Texas Canyon, this climb offers a moderate challenge and reliable bolts, making it a great introduction to steep sport climbing in the area.

Gear Requirements

The climb is secured by six bolts with a two-bolt anchor. A standard sport rack suffices, and since lowering isn’t available, plan for a careful downclimb or walk-off after the anchor.

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Tags

sport climb
bulge crux
stemming slab
single pitch
walk off descent
California climbing