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Bad Religion: The Penthouse Classic at Squamish

Squamish, Canada
trad
sport
single pitch
crux
slab
rappel
Squamish
The Chief
mixed protection
Length: 140 ft
Type: Trad | Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Bad Religion
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Bad Religion climbs the bold centerline of The Penthouse on The Chief, blending trad protection with bolted sport moves. Steep at the start with a crux near the top, this single-pitch route offers a perfect mix of challenge and breathtaking views."

Bad Religion: The Penthouse Classic at Squamish

Bad Religion offers climbers a compelling blend of challenge and flow on one of Squamish’s standout faces. From the moment your fingers find the first holds, you’re greeted by a steep, engaging ascent that demands precise footwork and a keen eye for protection. The route follows a striking line up the heart of The Penthouse, a prominent face on The Chief known for its varied terrain and spectacular views over Howe Sound. The opening moves are straightforward but require careful gear placement, with a couple of pieces needed to protect the initial 20 feet before the route shifts to bolted sport climbing. As you push upward, the rock leans back, shifting your effort from sheer power to balance and technique.

The crux reveals itself just before the climb eases onto a cruisy slab section near the anchor. Here, the holds become smaller and the moves more technical, demanding both finger strength and composure. The climber encounters an intricate puzzle of edges and smears juxtaposed against the bold backdrop of the granite wall. It’s a moment that tests both physical and mental control, reminding you to breathe into every move and trust your feet as much as your hands.

After surmounting the crux, the terrain opens onto a slab that provides a welcome reprieve and incredible panoramic exposure. The buoyant sense of achievement is mirrored by the expansive views that stretch across the forested slopes and sparkling water below. While the last section feels less demanding, it requires careful foot placement on the often polished granite.

For descent, climbers should be prepared for a two-rope rappel down to the base of the wall or opt for a solid walk-off route from the summit. The descent route is straightforward but calls for attention to footing, particularly if conditions are damp or slick.

Bad Religion is an accessible step into mid-grade mixed climbing at Squamish, offering a perfect balance for climbers looking to push their skills on varied terrain without committing to multi-pitch complexities. The route’s mix of trad and sport protection gives a versatile experience, rewarding solid gear management early on, and smooth clipping thereafter.

Planning your climb means arriving with appropriate shoes that grip polished granite, a double-rope set for the rappel, and a rack including cams up to 2 inches to secure the start. Hydration and timing are also key; summer mornings bring crisp air and good friction, while afternoon shade can cool the rock as the sun shifts behind The Chief.

Whether you’re connecting your first 5.10c/d or sharpening your trad climbing techniques with a secure bolt line nearby, Bad Religion stands out as a rewarding pitch that combines technical interest with breathtaking natural surroundings. It’s a climb that invites you to engage with the rock and landscape as active partners—the rock daring you upward, the wind encouraging a steady rhythm, and the vast Pacific horizon pulling your gaze beyond the climb itself.

Climber Safety

Early sections require solid gear placement into cracks up to 2 inches; make sure anchors are secure. The rappel demands two ropes and care with rope rub points. Slab near the anchors can be slick if damp, so evaluate conditions before committing.

Route Details

TypeTrad | Sport
Pitches1
Length140 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat and enjoy cooler rock.

Use tape on fingers as the crux features thin edges that can tire skin quickly.

Check weather; granite gets slick when wet—avoid climbing after rain.

Plan for a two-rope rappel or a careful walk-off; both require attention.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c/d
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10c/d rating is balanced, with the crux requiring finger strength and precise footwork. The grade feels fair for experienced climbers but may push less seasoned climbers due to technical moves near the top. Compared to other routes in Squamish at this grade, Bad Religion stands out with its hybrid protection and the physical-to-technical transition.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard rack including cams to 2 inches for the first 20 feet. After that, rely on the bolted line. A double-rope system is recommended for the rappel descent.

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Tags

trad
sport
single pitch
crux
slab
rappel
Squamish
The Chief
mixed protection