"Bad Cop, No Donut challenges climbers on a short but technical face in El Potrero Chico, offering route variations from 5.10+ to a committed 5.11a crux. With well-placed bolts and smart options for different skill levels, it’s a route that balances precision with choice."
Bad Cop, No Donut stands out in El Potrero Chico as a compact yet intense single-pitch sport climb that challenges both your technique and decision-making. Located in the striking Virgin Canyon, this 90-foot route offers variations that allow climbers to tailor the challenge—stick to the face for a clean 5.11a experience or veer left or right for slightly less demanding options around 5.10+. The rock is solid and textured, demanding precise footwork while the wall subtly leans, testing your balance and reach.
The climb’s defining feature is a left-leaning crack on the right that’s off-limits for the 5.11a route, and an accessible ramp to the left, which both offer easier lines but shift the character to a more moderate challenge. Staying true to the face calls for sustained focus and strength, while the adjacent features provide a mental breather or a strategic fallback.
El Potrero Chico brings raw granite that's surprisingly forgiving underfoot, but don’t mistake the easy reach of alternate holds for simplicity; the wall teases you into committing confidently or opting for the safer, less technical exits. With 10 to 12 bolts protecting the climb, you’ll find well-spaced, reliable anchors that keep protection straightforward but demand respect to avoid runouts.
The approach winds through sunlit desert ridges before reaching the base; a short hike puts you into the heart of one of northern Mexico’s premier climbing spots, known for its vertical limestone faces and striking canyon views. Plan your climb in late fall or early spring to avoid the summer heat that bakes the region. Hydration is critical, and bringing grippy shoes with moderate stiffness will help negotiate the face’s subtle edges and pockets.
Bad Cop, No Donut is perfect for climbers who crave a route steeped in options—engage the full 5.11a experience or test your flow on the approachable variations. The route’s location offers stunning panoramas of the Virgin Canyon, where wind whispers through the canyon walls and the sun carves shadows that dance across the granite. It’s a climb that rewards focused effort and tactical choice-making, wrapped in the expansive wilderness of El Potrero Chico.
The climb’s protection is solid, but the bolts are spaced in a way that requires careful clipping to avoid rope drag or falls over spaced draws. The approach is exposed and dry, so be mindful of dehydration and sunburn. The rock is generally sound but test holds carefully on the less trafficked ramp and crack variations.
Climb early in the day to avoid noon heat, especially in spring and fall.
Stick strictly to the face for the full 5.11a challenge; avoid the crack and the left ramp if you want the hardest line.
Hydrate well before the climb—the approach offers little shade or water sources.
Wear moderately stiff shoes to handle small edges mixed with face holds.
Protected by 10 to 12 bolts spaced to allow confident clipping without oversize gaps. Bring a standard sport rack with quickdraws, and double-check your draws to stay efficient and safe on this sustained face.
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