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Backyard Boogie: A Classic 5.9 Trad Pitch in Angeles National Forest

Los Angeles, California USA
finger crack
trad
single pitch
crystal lake wall
small cams
morning climb
southern california
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Backyard Boogie
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Backyard Boogie offers a compelling 5.9 trad test piece on the Crystal Lake Wall, weaving thin finger cracks with crisp face climbing. Perfect for climbers seeking approachable complexity without straying far from Los Angeles."

Backyard Boogie: A Classic 5.9 Trad Pitch in Angeles National Forest

Backyard Boogie stands out as a straightforward yet rewarding introduction to trad climbing in the Angeles National Forest. Located on the Crystal Lake Wall, this single-pitch route delivers a blend of moderate face climbing and finger crack sequences that keep climbers engaged without overwhelming them. The route moves up about 60 feet, tracing a path just left of Clown Syndrome’s first pitch, where thin finger cracks thread vertically up the sun-bathed rock face. These cracks offer intermittent but reliable holds, compelling you to balance finesse with strategic gear placements. The rock itself is solid with well-defined edges that invite confident hand and foot placements, making this climb feel more like a dance than a struggle.

In the warm glow of the southern California sun, the route’s face heats up by midday, so starting early to enjoy optimal friction and cooler conditions is wise. The wall faces southeast, catching morning light that exposes every subtle feature, while by afternoon it basks in full sun, intensifying the challenge but also amplifying the sweeping views of the surrounding pine-scented forest. The texture here is a tactile delight — the rock cheekily dares you to trust your smears and fingertip jams as you follow cracks that seem to pulse with rhythm.

Protection requires a careful selection of smaller cams, with the tightest placements demanding tiny sizes under an inch. For the anchor, some mid-sized cams between .2 and .4 inches are essential, as the setup can be a bit intricate and requires a moment of careful assessment to piece together a reliable belay. The complexity of the anchor reminds you that while Backyard Boogie is accessible, a keen eye and steady hands are necessary throughout. This climb rewards those who keep their focus, as staying on the cracks—especially higher up—helps maintain the route’s intended 5.9 difficulty; diverting into the adjacent dihedral on the left eases the challenge if you prefer.

Though this route might not house a high volume of votes, the experience it offers is genuine: an approachable trad climb that encourages climbers to refine their finger crack technique and gear placement skills in a natural setting. It's well-suited for those who want a memorable yet manageable trad pitch within striking distance of Los Angeles, offering a taste of wilderness without a lengthy approach. Speaking of which, the approach itself is short and direct, weaving through forested slopes before reaching the base of the wall.

Equipment-wise, sturdy climbing shoes that allow precise edging and crack jamming will give you the confidence to handle the route’s fine features. Hydration is key since the sun can be relentless here, especially if you plan to climb mid-morning or later. Given the elevation and exposure, bringing a light windbreaker just in case the forest’s breeze picks up is a good call.

As a local gem, Backyard Boogie doesn’t dazzle with overwhelming scale or extreme difficulty, but instead captures the pleasure of a deliberate, enjoyable climb in the Angeles National Forest. Its proximity to Los Angeles makes it an ideal afternoon adventure for trad climbers seeking a taste of California’s wild side without sacrificing accessibility. With its inviting cracks, dependable protection, and clear-cut movement, this route stands ready to test well-practiced trad skills while rewarding you with a fresh perspective on the skyline framed by whispering pines.

Climber Safety

The anchor requires particular attention since it can be complex and involves small cam placements; double-check each piece to ensure security before belaying. Be mindful of sun exposure later in the day when the wall heats up, as this can affect grip and increase dehydration risk.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy cooler rock and better friction before the afternoon sun.

Stick closely to the finger cracks in the middle of the face to maintain the route’s 5.9 challenge.

Use smaller cams for protection—placements are tight but reliable when placed well.

Hydrate well and pack a light windbreaker in case the forest breeze picks up.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating feels fairly true to the grade, with engaging finger cracks providing the crux sequence. The route remains consistently moderate if you stay on the cracks, while moving left into the dihedral lowers the difficulty slightly. Compared to nearby climbs like Clown Syndrome, Backyard Boogie offers a similar technical feel but with fewer tricky moves and a less intimidating anchor setup.

Gear Requirements

Bring a rack with tiny cams under 1 inch for the main protection. Include some .2 to .4 cams to build the somewhat fiddly anchor at the top, since fixed gear is minimal and placements require careful judgment.

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Tags

finger crack
trad
single pitch
crystal lake wall
small cams
morning climb
southern california