5.10a, Trad
Frenchman Lake
California ,United States
"Backstreet’s Back at Frenchman Lake challenges trad climbers with a tight, semi-awkward crack that demands precise gear placement and steady movement. This isolated single-pitch offers a gritty, rewarding test of endurance and technique on solid northeast-facing stone."
Frenchman Lake's South Grotto offers a climb that blends raw crack climbing with a tangible sense of discovery in northeastern California. Backstreet's Back presents one pitch of 50 feet filled with technical jamming and stemming along a semi-awkward, finger-to-hand-width crack that demands both patience and precision. The route climbs from the base near the gully adjacent to Leather Hand Lieback, pushing climbers to trust their protection and movement as they navigate the tidied crack. The face feels alive under your fingertips, with the rock’s texture offering reliable friction despite its compact nature. The approach meanders through pine-scented trails, soft underfoot with patches of compacted dirt and scattered needles, easing into the climb’s isolated alcove. This spot sits quietly, far enough from busy selectors to reward climbers with respite and focus.
Protection centers around gear placements up to 3 inches, requiring climbers to carry a versatile rack to confidently secure at tricky spots where opportunities don’t come easy but hold firm when found. The crack’s unique shape tests your rack selection and demands careful, deliberate placement. While it’s only a single pitch, it offers a satisfying blend of physical endurance and mental puzzle-solving. Climbers experienced with California’s trad routes will appreciate the subtle challenges and the chance to brush off the dust on a less-traveled line.
Timing your ascent is best in the cooler morning or late afternoon hours during spring through fall; the wall faces northeast, balancing between morning sun and afternoon shade to keep temperatures moderate, though early-season chill lingers. Leave no trace on the approach or climb—Frenchman Lake is a quiet refuge, rich with forest sounds and the occasional rustling of wildlife urging respect for the surroundings.
For those packing for the adventure, sturdy climbing shoes with solid edging, a mid-weight rack scaled up to 3 inches, and a helmet are essential. Hydration is key as the climb demands focused effort amidst dry, pine-fragranced air. The descent involves a straightforward walk-off back to the trail, avoiding complicated rappels but requiring attention to loose terrain near the gully exit. This climb is a crisp reminder that some of the best California trad lines require a balance of grit, skill, and attention to natural detail.
Though the crack is solid, protection spots require care; some placements can be shallow or tricky to place. The approach terrain near the gully includes loose rock—take careful footing on both access and descent to prevent slips or dislodged debris.
Approach via the South Grotto trail— expect easy footing with some loose patches near the gully.
The crack cleans up well but stays semi-awkward; focus on precise hand jams and stemming.
Best climbed during cooler parts of the day to avoid overheating; morning or late afternoon are ideal.
The descent is a walk-off; watch for loose rock on the gully path back to the trailhead.
Climbers should bring a traditional rack with protection sized up to 3 inches. The crack’s shape requires careful, deliberate gear placements; sloppy or shallow placements can be unreliable. A helmet and standard trad rack essentials round out the gear list.
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