"A beginner-friendly trad climb tucked just right of Main Corner, Back to the Wall provides a straightforward single pitch with solid gear placements and a unique V-shaped finish. Situated in Gatineau Park, it’s an ideal route for those starting trad or looking for a relaxed climb amidst serene woodland surroundings."
Carving a line just to the right of Main Corner, the Back to the Wall offers a straightforward yet engaging introduction to trad climbing in Gatineau Park. This single-pitch route stretches up a clean, slightly angled face before concluding at a distinctive small V-shaped notch that beckons you to reach for the final holds. The rock here presents solid features and comfortable hand jams, making it suitable for climbers looking to build confidence on traditional gear.
Set within the home cliff area of Gatineau Park, the climb is surrounded by the quiet, whispering forests of Outaouais, Quebec. The air carries the scent of pine and earth, and the steady rustle of leaves blends with distant birdcalls. The granite rock feels warm first thing in the morning, catching the early light and inviting an early start. The approach trails are well-trodden, a short and manageable walk through shaded woods offering calm before the ascent.
The grade sits at a mellow 5.3, ideal for beginners or for experienced climbers seeking a relaxed route with low-stress placements. Protection is straightforward with a standard rack, as the crack patterns allow for secure placements without fuss. The face climbs smoothly with no surprises; friction is reliable, and holds are consistent though not overly large, demanding careful footwork rather than brute strength.
Weather can shift quickly in this region, so dry conditions are key to maintaining grip on the slabby sections. Given the route’s east-facing aspect, morning climbs benefit from cool temperatures and dappled light, while afternoon ascents might bring warmer rock and occasional sun exposure. Late summer through early fall offers the best window when the forest canopy is bright but not oppressive, and bugs are less prevalent.
Descending from the small notch is simple—an easy scramble down or a short walk off through forested terrain. It's wise to keep an eye on footing here, as loose leaf litter can add a slippery component to the final meters.
Back to the Wall is a fine choice for those easing into trad or anyone drawn to quieter corners of Gatineau Park’s climbing offerings. It balances approachable difficulty with just enough character to keep the experience rewarding. Pack your helmet, a standard rack, and a readiness to embrace peaceful surroundings while focusing on clean climbing techniques.
Though the rock is generally sound, watch for loose flakes near the small notch at the top. The descent involves a short scramble on a leaf-covered slope that can be slick when damp—take deliberate steps.
Start early to enjoy cooler rock and softer light on the east-facing face.
Wear shoes with good edging as holds are moderate but require precise footwork.
Carry a helmet to guard against occasional loose rock near the notch.
Check weather to avoid slippery conditions on slabby sections.
A standard rack covers necessary protection here. The crack system allows for straightforward placements without tricky or unusual gear requirements.
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