"Back on the Liquor challenges climbers with two pitches of sustained, technical limestone climbing featuring thin holds and a powerful bulge crux. Located in El Potrero Chico, this sport route blends solid protection with natural character, perfect for climbers stepping up to 5.11."
Back on the Liquor offers two pitches of invigorating sport climbing set against the rugged backdrop of El Potrero Chico’s steep limestone cliffs. This 200-foot route is carved from solid, hard rock that demands precise footwork and steady focus. The first pitch starts with some slender, technical moves that ease into a sustained vertical section. The rock here is consistently good, though the thin holds require careful balance and smooth movement. As you reach the anchor, you’re perched on a ledge that offers a moment to catch your breath and scan the wall above.
Pitch two amps up the intensity immediately, challenging climbers to pull through a bulge that tests your core strength and commitment. Beyond the bulge, there’s a ledge to aim for, but keep your eyes sharp to avoid loose blocks that linger nearby. Above, a final headwall demands a controlled approach and some tougher sequences to top out.
Set in the sunny region of El Potrero Chico, this climb catches the early morning light on its western-facing wall, making morning ascents cooler and more comfortable during the heat of the day. The rock’s texture offers enough friction to keep traction underfoot, yet the sharper edges call for solid climbing shoes. Bolted protection runs the length of the climb, providing dependable safety but expecting climbers to be self-reliant with quickdraw management and route reading on the fly.
Approaching the wall involves a short walk from the base parking area, weaving through arid terrain scattered with desert scrub and towering cacti that seem to lean toward the rock, as if silently urging climbers upward. The nearby town of Sunnyvale provides a convenient base camp with access to supplies and local knowledge, while the larger city of Monterrey lies within reach for any last-minute needs.
For climbers primed to push into the 5.11 range in a classic sport climbing setting, Back on the Liquor offers a straightforward but compelling challenge. The route’s exposed sections introduce an edge of excitement—not overwhelming but enough to keep adrenaline focused. Whether you’re fine-tuning your lead climbing skills or craving a tested route with a bit of bite, this development in Nuevo Leon’s climbing scene deserves a spot on your agenda.
Loose blocks near the ledge on pitch two can pose a hazard—always test holds before weighting them. The approach trail is uneven and can be slippery after rain, so good footwear and caution are necessary.
Start early to avoid midday heat, as the wall faces west and heats quickly after noon.
Bring climbing shoes with good edging capabilities to handle thin holds on pitch one.
Watch out for a few loose blocks on the ledge above the bulge; test handholds before committing.
Plan for a short but careful approach; trail markers can be faint and the terrain uneven.
This route is fully bolted, requiring standard sport climbing gear with quickdraws for protection. The bolts are solid, but climbers should be prepared for some tricky clipping positions around the bulge on the second pitch.
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