"Back in Black is a concise 50-foot trad climb on Hartman Rocks’ sandstone walls just east of the water groove. Bolted protection combined with moderate 5.9 moves makes this a rewarding line for climbers eager to refine technique while soaking up Gunnison’s open expanse."
Back in Black carves a compelling, modest line on the heart of Hartman Rocks, delivering a concise but addictive trad climbing experience just to the right of Primal Instinct’s well-known path. This 50-foot pitch invites you to engage with Colorado’s raw sandstone on a route protected by bolts, making it approachable for climbers stepping into the area’s adventurous spirit. The climb begins just off the prominent water groove—a natural feature that visually and physically marks the route’s start—and weaves upward with clean, steady movement before finishing within the groove itself. The rock beneath your fingers feels solid yet textured, offering enough purchase for confident footwork and hand jams, while the surrounding terrain opens into rippled layers of sandstone stretching across the sunlit wall.
Hartman Rocks’ broad expanse is a playground for those seeking quality routes with a straightforward approach. Located in Gunnison, Colorado, this spot offers accessibility and a sense of quiet challenge outside of peak tourist areas. The moderate grade of 5.9 makes this climb a fitting benchmark for those familiar with leading trad but ready to test their technique on a route that demands focus without overwhelming commitment.
Protection is minimal but reliable thanks to strategically placed bolts, though bringing your standard trad rack is a smart move to bridge sections cleanly and build comfortable anchors. The single pitch keeps things concentrated, offering an opportunity to sharpen your rope management and movement over featured sandstone. While the route doesn’t extend into a labyrinth of pitches, every move counts as you navigate between the bolted placements and natural holds, negotiating the groove’s edges and the small ledges that break up the ascent.
Planning your day here means packing shoes suited for sandstone, a helmet for occasional choss, and enough water to stay hydrated in Colorado’s high desert climate. Early spring and fall provide thermal comfort, with less sun exposure early morning and late afternoon helping to keep hands from overheating or drying out too fast. The approach trail is short and simple, leaving more time to focus on climbing and soaking in Hartman’s wide landscapes that hint at Gunnison’s rugged beauty.
For those appreciating manageable technical routes with just enough adventure to feel alive, Back in Black is a solid addition to any day out. It balances a touch of boldness with practical climbing, offering a neat introduction or a confident mid-grade send in a setting that promotes both skills and scenery.
While bolts offer protection, the sandstone terrain can include some loose flakes near the water groove. Always wear a helmet and test handholds before trusting them fully, especially after seasonal weather changes that can weaken rock stability.
Start just right of the prominent water groove for easy access to the route’s line.
Bring shoes with sticky rubber for optimal sandstone friction.
Aim to climb early or late in the day to avoid harsh midday sun.
Carry extra water; the approach and climb sit in a dry, desert-like environment.
Bolts protect key sections but a standard trad rack helps with clean placements and anchoring. Helmet recommended due to occasional loose rock.
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