HomeClimbingBaby Teddy

Baby Teddy: A Compact Trad Climb at The Smoke Bluffs

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
hand-jam
left-leaning crack
bolted anchor
easy approach
beginner-friendly
Length: 35 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Baby Teddy
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Baby Teddy offers a concise trad climb on The Smoke Bluffs' Parking Lot Wall, featuring engaging hand cracks and a bolted arete finish. Perfect for trad newcomers looking to hone their crack skills in Squamish's vibrant climbing scene."

Baby Teddy: A Compact Trad Climb at The Smoke Bluffs

Baby Teddy offers a brief yet engaging trad climb that packs a satisfying dose of classic hand-jamming into just 35 feet of vertical terrain. Situated on the Parking Lot Wall within The Smoke Bluffs, this route greets climbers with a pair of left-leaning cracks that demand steady hands and thoughtful placement. The ascent culminates at a bolted arete finish—an inviting feature that rewards persistence with a manageable yet clearly defined end.

From the base, the cracks appear to tug you upward, inviting exploration of hand jams that provide tactile feedback as your fingers settle into the seams. The subtle left lean gives the climb a pleasant rhythm, encouraging a smooth, measured pace rather than a hurried scramble. Those who veer to the left of the bolts often find a more continuous line, while moving right may truncate the climb prematurely.

Protection consists mainly of hand-sized gear placements, requiring a rack that emphasizes smaller cams and nuts. The two bolts at the top serve as reliable anchors, anchored by a chain anchor that assures a secure rappel or top-out. This combination of traditional gear and bolts offers comfort to newer trad climbers cautiously testing the waters and appeals to experienced climbers who appreciate the trust earned through their own protection placements.

The Smoke Bluffs area itself unfolds over granite slabs and cracks against the backdrop of Squamish—a world-renowned climbing destination known for its accessible rock and diverse routes. The Parking Lot Wall is easy to locate, with a straightforward approach ideal for a quick session or warming up before longer climbs. The trail to the wall is well-worn, crossing open forested ground that hums faintly with the chatter of birds and the rustle of wind in the branches.

Plan for moderate weather; the wall faces a direction that basks in morning sun and benefits from afternoon shade, allowing for comfortable climbing across much of the day during spring through fall. Footwear with sticky rubber and good precision will help negotiating the slabby sections near the top, where friction more than jamming holds the key.

While Baby Teddy’s length makes it a concise challenge, its hand jams develop useful skills, making it a worthy stop for anyone eager to sharpen crack technique or simply savor a focused blast of trad climbing in a stunning setting. Water up beforehand and bring a helmet—loose debris and occasional rockfall can occur even on well-maintained routes.

This route’s approachable rating and straightforward protection scheme make it an attractive option for trad beginners and those topping out lower grades but looking to gain confidence in gear placements under real conditions. Its moderate star rating reflects a climb that is accessible yet offers a satisfying sense of accomplishment.

In the broader context of climbing at The Smoke Bluffs, Baby Teddy serves as a bright spot on the Parking Lot Wall, ideal for early-season attempts and a welcome counterpoint to the area's more committing climbs. Whether it's your first trad lead or part of a longer day of climbing, Baby Teddy invites you to connect with the granite’s grain and find joy in the simplicity of hand jams and solid rock.

Climber Safety

Watch for small loose chips around the base and near the bolts; a helmet is essential. The approach trail is short but can be slippery when wet, so wear sturdy shoes. Check wind conditions as the area can funnel gusts at the Parking Lot Wall.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length35 feet

Local Tips

Approach via the well-marked trail to the Parking Lot Wall; allow 15 minutes from the main trailhead.

Morning climbs are best as the wall receives early sun and afternoon shade.

Wear sticky rubber shoes for confident movement on the slab near the top.

Always wear a helmet: loose rock can fall near the start and finish areas.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.7
Quality
Consensus:This 5.7 route leans toward the softer side of the grade, offering a manageable pitch that emphasizes solid hand jams over athletic moves. Compared to other climbs in The Smoke Bluffs, Baby Teddy feels straightforward but requires decent gear skills to protect the crack efficiently. The top bolted arete adds security without diminishing the traditional experience.

Gear Requirements

Bring a set of hand-sized cams and nuts to cover the main crack placements, with particular emphasis on smaller gear. The route finishes with two fixed bolts and a chained anchor for secure belays or rappels.

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Tags

hand-jam
left-leaning crack
bolted anchor
easy approach
beginner-friendly