"Baby Ricky presents a brief but satisfying trad and boulder climb on coarse sand sandstone at Pirate's Cove. This 15-foot route features an obvious jugline and a smooth mantle move, ideal for beginners or those seeking a quick coastal challenge."
Baby Ricky offers a brief but engaging climb that invites climbers to test their skills on smooth sandstone with minimal fuss. Located in the lively Pirate's Cove, also known locally as The Beach or Corona Del Mar, this route demands attention with its straightforward jugline and a delicate mantle onto the slab above. The climb measures just 15 feet, making it accessible for beginners and a perfect warm-up or quick outing for those in the Los Angeles Basin area. Pirate's Cove itself is a sun-drenched coastal spot where the salty breeze plays through the rocks and the Pacific waves hum just below, daring you to focus on balance and precision.
The approach is uncomplicated, starting just to the right of a prominent stairway leading into the cove, guiding you to a natural jugline that runs right to left. This jugline encourages a confident grip before requiring a smooth mantle move to top out on a gentle slab. The sandstone here holds coarse sand rather than traditional nuts or cams, which means climbers will rely more on friction and careful footwork than on technical gear placements. This low-impact protection element reminds you that sometimes a careful climb is as much about finesse as force.
Though the route is short and rated at 5.8 V-easy, it offers an excellent opportunity for newcomers to practice slab technique without the pressure of length or complex protection. This friendly climb also provides a glimpse of the ocean’s proximity through salty air and sweeping blue hues, a reminder that adventure comes in many forms and scales. Given the single pitch and easy rating, Baby Ricky is a handy spot to squeeze in some climbing between beach visits or to unwind after a busy day exploring the broader Corona Del Mar area.
Planning your visit here means considering the tide and time of day, as the afternoon sun will warm the rock surface while morning shades keep it cooler and less slick. Wear shoes with good rubber to maximize grip on the sandy slab, and bring plenty of water to stay hydrated under the direct California sun. Although the climb is brief, awareness of slippery sand and the limited protection option is essential for staying safe. Whether you're traveling solo or introducing a friend to trad climbing, Baby Ricky balances a playful challenge with an unbeatable coastal setting, making it a rewarding stop on any La Jolla climbing itinerary.
The climb’s sandy sandstone provides minimal protection, so avoid overcommitting on difficult moves. Watch for loose sand on footholds and be mindful of sun exposure on open slab sections, especially midday when the rock can heat up noticeably.
Start your climb just right of the stairway leading into Pirate’s Cove.
Time your visit for morning or late afternoon to avoid the midday sun on the slab.
Use shoes with excellent grip to handle the sandy slab surface safely.
Bring water and sun protection as shade is limited near the climb.
Protection relies on the coarse sand features of the rock rather than standard trad gear. Bring shoes with sticky rubber for solid foot placement and prepare for minimal to no fixed gear placements.
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