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Axe of God: A Bold Trad Climb on Suicide Rock

Palm Springs, California United States
undercling start
hand jams
rappel descent
granite
desert heat
Length: 120 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Axe of God
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Axe of God stands out on Suicide Rock with a challenging undercling start that quickly transitions into classic hand jamming and face climbing. This single-pitch route rewards precise gear placement and mental grit, set against the vast California desert backdrop."

Axe of God: A Bold Trad Climb on Suicide Rock

Axe of God stakes its claim on Suicide Rock’s rugged face, offering a one-pitch adventure that tests both nerve and technique. Situated just right of the classic Escalator route, this climb begins beneath a jagged flake that leans like a weathered axe—an imposing landmark that immediately grabs attention. Expect a demanding start where an unprotected undercling forces you to commit, requiring precise body positioning and steady hands. Once past this initial challenge, the route eases into secure hand jams and transitions smoothly to face climbing on solid granite. The rock here feels alive under your fingertips, sharp edges daring you forward as the route quantum shifts from cramped tension to more spacious movements.

This climb is short but sharp: 120 feet that reward those who can push through the tricky beginning with fluid motion and mental focus. The angle of the rock demands your full engagement, and the route’s moderate 5.8 PG13 grade reflects a climb that feels approachable but stern, especially at the start where protection is sparse. A standard rack will serve well, though be ready for some inventive gear placements right off the deck. Finding good placements early is crucial to feeling secure and confident as you move upward.

Beyond the technical aspects, the setting amplifies the experience. Suicide Rock’s elevation offers sweeping views of the surrounding California desert landscape, the sun casting long shadows across the granite as afternoon winds ripple through the pines. The air carries a dry heat that rises from the rock itself, challenging climbers to manage hydration and maintain focus. When the top arrives, the summit anchors allow for a smooth rappel descent, a clean exit from this focused, intense climb.

Axe of God is not for the faint-hearted but delivers a rewarding slice of Tahquitz climbing heritage. If you prepare your gear carefully and respect the route’s bold start, you’ll gain a memorable taste of classic granite trad climbing in one of the region’s iconic settings.

Climber Safety

The first moves offer sparse protection and an exposed undercling that requires careful gear placement and a confident, precise technique. Loose rock around the axe flake adds hazard; test holds carefully. The rappel anchors at the top are secure but ensure your rappel rope is properly doubled before descending.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length120 feet

Local Tips

Approach early in the day to avoid the afternoon desert heat on the rock.

Hydrate thoroughly before the climb; the dry air can dehydrate quickly.

Double-check your rack for small cams to secure the initial undercling moves.

Use sturdy climbing shoes for precise edging on sharp granite features.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 PG13
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8 PG13, Axe of God challenges climbers with an exposed and unprotected undercling start that can feel stiffer than the grade suggests, making the climb a mental test as well as a physical one. Compared to other Suicide Rock routes, it’s straightforward after the initial crux but demands a calm, calculated approach.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack focusing on smaller cams and nuts for the undercling start and hand jams. Expect fewer fixed anchors, so carry strong slings and a solid rappel setup for descent.

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Tags

undercling start
hand jams
rappel descent
granite
desert heat