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Awful Waffle: A Compact Trad Challenge at Devil's Head

Denver, Colorado United States
stem crack
mantel move
slab finish
single pitch
Front Range Colorado
Length: 65 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Awful Waffle
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Awful Waffle packs a tight, engaging trad climb into 65 feet of varied crack and slab at Devil’s Head. With a stem start and a tricky mantel followed by slabby moves, this route offers a compact challenge for climbers looking to sharpen crack skills and footwork in Colorado’s South Platte corridor."

Awful Waffle: A Compact Trad Challenge at Devil's Head

Awful Waffle offers a focused burst of classic Colorado trad climbing on a modest 65-foot face at Devil's Head, a favored destination within the South Platte region. This route invites climbers into a right-facing dihedral where rhythm and balance are key. The climb begins with a stem move, pressing outward against the crack’s edges, engaging both body and mind in a tactile conversation with the rock. As you navigate upward, your hands find themselves on an awkward mantel—the left side grips require careful negotiation due to slightly brittle holds that demand controlled force and precision. Beyond this delicate move, you'll encounter a single fixed bolt, a reliable checkpoint amidst the natural gear placements, which allow for a comfortable clipping moment without breaking the flow.

From the bolt, the route commits to a slabby finish, requiring steady footwork and confidence on less featured stone, a test of nerves as much as technique. The climb concludes at the anchors of No Shirt No Service, offering a convenient and secure top-out point. Protection on Awful Waffle is compact but sufficient: a carefully curated rack of Black Diamond C4 cams between sizes 0.4 and 3 supplemented by nuts fits the crack system well and supports confident placements. There’s no need for an extensive rack here, but precise gear selection and placement experience will make the difference.

Approaching the route, climbers should prepare for a short hike through familiar mixed pine and scrub, with the air often filled by the whisper of mountain breezes and the distant chatter of the forest. The rock’s sun exposure means mornings bring ideal coolness and shade, while the afternoon warmth invites a more physical challenge. Given the single pitch’s intensity and the delicate moves involved, climbers of varying experience levels will find it a rewarding line – advanced beginners brush against intermediate moves that build confidence and blade sharper skills.

Devil’s Head itself is a reliable climbing zone within Colorado’s Front Range, accessible enough for day trips yet offering enough solitude on certain weekdays. Whether you're drawn to testing your body’s control on stemmed cracks or enjoying the calm broken only by the sound of clipped gear and echoing laughter, Awful Waffle provides a compact experience with solid payoff. Entry-level rack knowledge and a steady foot make this climb a satisfying notch on your belt before heading to longer routes nearby or exploring the broader South Platte corridor.

Practical tips include timing your approach early to beat the heat and ensure crisp friction on slab, double-checking your nut placements for added security before committing to the mantel, and bringing shoes with moderate stiffness to comfortably navigate both the crack and slab sections. The brief yet dynamic nature of Awful Waffle encourages focused effort and attentive climbing, ensuring a memorable session on one of Colorado’s lesser-known but characterful walls.

Climber Safety

Be mindful of the crunchy holds on the mantel; avoid sudden jerks which could lead to slips or holds breaking. Also, slab sections demand focused foot placement to prevent falls, so steady shoes and controlled movement are essential.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length65 feet

Local Tips

Approach early in the day to enjoy cooler temperatures and cleaner slab friction.

Focus on precise hand placements on the left side mantel, as holds can be slightly fragile.

Wear shoes with moderate stiffness to handle both crack stemming and slab balance.

Carry a moderate rack; oversized or unnecessary gear only adds weight with little benefit.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating feels accurate but leans toward stiff for newcomers due to the awkward mantel and the slab finish that requires confident footwork. Compared to other Front Range classics, this climb sits just beyond easy beginner terrain, rewarding careful movement and smart gear selection.

Gear Requirements

Bring a selective rack of Black Diamond C4 cams from size 0.4 to 3 along with nuts to protect the dihedral crack. Placement opportunities are consistent but require care due to occasionally fragile holds near the mantel move.

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Tags

stem crack
mantel move
slab finish
single pitch
Front Range Colorado