HomeClimbingAvalon Connection

Avalon Connection at The Valley of Shaddai

Squamish, Canada
finger crack
bouldery start
bolt protected crux
scramble chimney
low traffic
salal bushes
multi-pitch trad
Length: 180 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Avalon Connection
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Avalon Connection offers a demanding three-pitch trad climb blending powerful crack sequences with technical face moves. Hidden in the quiet Valley of Shaddai near Squamish, this route challenges climbers with its thin placements and diverse terrain, rewarded by peaceful forest views and solid protection."

Avalon Connection at The Valley of Shaddai

Avalon Connection is a bold, three-pitch trad climb carved into the rugged granite walls of The Valley of Shaddai near Squamish, British Columbia. The route demands focus and finesse, starting with a powerful bouldery move guarded by a bolt that immediately puts your finger strength and body positioning to the test. Climbing the finger-sized flake crack to the left, you navigate this technical terrain while the rock’s texture feels raw and alive beneath your hands. Reaching the roomy ledge at the top of the first pitch invites a brief moment to catch your breath and prepare for what comes next. The second pitch, Pyrix, is a short but punchy 10a climb that runs up a groove along the arete. Though compact, it packs a demanding sequence right from the bottom, perfect for those looking to sharpen their crack and face climbing skills. Linking the first two pitches is an option for strong climbers comfortable moving quickly through the sustained sections.

After topping out pitch two, a short forest step back marks the approach to the third pitch. Here, the climb shifts character as you scramble up a wide chimney on its left side with straightforward moves before arriving at an open ledge dotted with salal bushes. The final pitch, Closing Number, delivers a burly sustained crack climb punctuated by a roof that forces a committing hand traverse. Each move tests endurance and technique, with bolt protection placed judiciously for tough spots. The sound of your gear clipping and the occasional creak of swaying bushes underscore the quiet remoteness of the Valley, a place surprisingly still despite its proximity to the bustle of Squamish.

Protection is straightforward: a standard rack up to a gold Camalot offers the necessary coverage for thin, tricky placements on pitch one, while bolts help secure key cruxes on every pitch. Anchors are solid two-bolt setups, although some may have additional gear for rappelling. The area’s isolation means traffic is sparse, and natural debris like pine needles and cobwebs often cling to holds. Packing a nut tool and a brush will ensure better grip security, helping you clean holds as you ascend.

Avalon Connection is a rewarding climb that mixes technical crack climbing with delicate face moves, perfect for those who want a multi-faceted challenge away from the crowds. Prepare for varying terrain, from steep crack jamming to thin technique, and embrace the quiet wilderness ambiance that wraps this route. Early season or late summer offers stable weather and longer daylight hours, ideal for working through the pitches and soaking in views of the surrounding forest and valley below.

Approaching the climb requires a short hike into a seldom frequented forest track, marked by dense patches of underbrush and mossy boulders. The descent can be made via rappelling from the anchors, but many climbers prefer to walk off through the fields of salal bushes back to the top of the gully known as the "Gully of Death." This alternative is straightforward but requires careful footing as loose debris and vegetation cover the ground.

In sum, Avalon Connection is a climb that demands respect and offers a pure trad experience with a mix of technical and athletic moves. Its quiet setting paired with thoughtfully bolted protection makes it a must-try route for climbers hungry for a solid, adventure-rich outing just outside one of Canada’s climbing hotspots.

Climber Safety

Due to limited traffic, expect occasional pine needles and cobwebs on holds. Clearance with a nut tool is advisable. The salal bush ledges can be slippery and unstable, so move with care. Rappel anchors may lack rings or biners; scouting descent options before climbing is recommended.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches3
Length180 feet

Local Tips

Carry a nut tool to clear holds before key moves.

Wear sticky shoes with good edging for technical face sections.

Start early in the day to avoid afternoon heat and maximize daylight.

Use caution on the salal-covered ledges during the third pitch’s approach and descent.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10c rating reflects a stiff challenge with a bouldery start on pitch one and a physical crux in the final pitch's roof. While the grade feels true to the difficulty, the short but intense second pitch (10a) offers a compact test of endurance. Compared to other Squamish classics, it sits comfortably in the upper-intermediate trad bracket with technical demands that reward precise footwork and gear placement.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack up to gold Camalot required. Bolts guard key cruxes across pitches one through three. Bring a nut tool and brush for cleaning pine needles and cobwebs due to low route traffic.

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Tags

finger crack
bouldery start
bolt protected crux
scramble chimney
low traffic
salal bushes
multi-pitch trad