HomeClimbingAurora Borealis

Aurora Borealis at Black Bluff North Face

Big Bear Lake, California United States
off-width
hand traverse
granite crack
5.9
single pitch
Big Bear
trad protection
flake holds
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Aurora Borealis
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Aurora Borealis stands out as a must-do 5.9 trad climb on Black Bluff's north face. It offers an athletic, hands-on crack experience punctuated by a satisfying hand traverse and a scenic ledge finish, perfect for climbers looking to combine technique with spectacular views."

Aurora Borealis at Black Bluff North Face

Aurora Borealis presents a compelling challenge amid the rugged contours of the San Bernardino Mountains, immediately inviting climbers into a playground of textured granite and crack systems that demand both finesse and grit. This single-pitch, 80-foot trad route is celebrated for its blend of athleticism and flow, carving a line up the north face of Black Bluff that rewards persistence and precision. From the onset, you face an off-width inside a flake — firm, textured granite that welcomes confident hand jams and delicate footwork. The right-hand flakes serve as reliable allies, offering holds that ease the transition into the climb’s character-defining crux: a committed hand traverse that shifts you left to a comfortable ledge. This maneuver is both tactical and satisfying, providing a moment to recalibrate amid the ascent.

Beyond this point, a splitter crack snakes upward, interspersed with subtle features to the left that create opportunities for efficient rests and strategic moves. The route’s rhythm balances between demanding sequences and recovery pockets, culminating in a flaring pod at the top. Negotiating this final section calls for controlled face climbing on either side of the pod, testing one's adaptability and technique. As you settle onto the ledge, the expansive panorama of Big Bear Lake and the surrounding peaks stretches out around you — a quiet reward that feels well-earned.

The rock quality here is firm, offering excellent friction and a solid platform for placement. Protection is straightforward yet essential: a standard rack from size 1 to 4 Friends will suffice, with a larger #5 recommended at the base to secure the initial moves. Anchor points are well-established with two bolts, allowing for a clean rappel descent with a 60-meter rope.

Situated within the Big Bear Lake area, this route sits in a zone famed for its dry climate and consistent granite walls, providing reliable conditions through most of the climbing season. The approach is accessible via a moderate hike through pine-scented paths and rocky outcrops, setting the tone for an engaging day that blends outdoor immersion with technical challenge. Whether you’re chasing solid 5.9 crack climbs or aiming to sharpen your off-width skills, Aurora Borealis delivers a focused and rewarding experience framed in one of Southern California’s premier climbing destinations.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose debris on the flake edges, especially after rain. The hand traverse requires secure footing — take extra care here. The fixed anchors are reliable, but always double-check your rappel setup and bring a backup system for descent.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Start with comfortable gloves to protect hands in the off-width section.

Plan your ascent to avoid midday sun; the north face offers good shade in the morning and late afternoon.

Bring a 60m rope for a direct rappel from the fixed anchors.

Arrive early to secure parking and enjoy cooler morning temperatures on the trail.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:This route holds a solid 5.9 rating with a notable crux involving a hand traverse that slightly elevates its difficulty. The grade feels true overall, offering a well-balanced challenge that sits comfortably for those with some crack climbing experience. Compared to local classics like "Gabriel" at Joshua Tree, Aurora Borealis demands more off-width technique, making it an excellent progression climb in the San Bernardino Mountains.

Gear Requirements

Requires a standard rack of Friends from #1 to #4 and a #5 cam at the start. The anchor consists of two bolts suitable for rappelling with a 60m rope.

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Tags

off-width
hand traverse
granite crack
5.9
single pitch
Big Bear
trad protection
flake holds