HomeClimbingAuld Lang Syne

Auld Lang Syne at Guard House

Lyons, Colorado United States
off-fingers
right-facing dihedral
off-width bulge
two-pitch
St. Vrain Canyon
bushes on route
granite
classic trad
Length: 175 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Auld Lang Syne
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Auld Lang Syne tests your crack climbing skills across two pitches of gritty dihedrals and a striking off-width bulge in St. Vrain Canyon. This route blends compelling natural features with straightforward protection in a wild canyon setting outside Lyons, CO."

Auld Lang Syne at Guard House

Auld Lang Syne presents a memorable two-pitch climb carved into the heart of the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon near Lyons, Colorado. The route begins with a gritty right-facing dihedral that demands steady off-finger jams, offering about 50 feet of continuous climbing before you reach a broad ledge. Nature takes its own due here: two stubborn bushes cling to the crack, inviting climbers to navigate not just stone but living challenges. Moving leftward across this ledge delivers some light traversing, passing the overlooked Eric Couldn't Come crack, before you find your next belay station tucked in a second right-facing dihedral.

The second pitch raises the stakes with a mix of corner climbing and face moves, culminating in an imposing off-width to fist-sized bulge that serves as the crux. This bulge isn’t just a physical obstacle—it’s a gatekeeper that tests your technique, patience, and boldness. Beyond it, the route relaxes into ramps and easy mantles clogged with more thorny bushes to negotiate, pushing your balance and route-finding skills before reaching a final belay ledge just shy of the local summit.

The terrain combines the rawness of classic Colorado canyon climbs with pockets of wild character, where the rock breathes age and persistence. Expect gritty textures under your fingers and moments where the natural landscape demands respect beyond the usual climbing protocol.

Protection is straightforward but demands a thoughtful rack: a single set from BD #0.3 to 4 covers the range, with extra pieces between #0.75 and 3 granting a safer, more confident placement strategy on the trickier sections. A complete set of stoppers rounds out the necessary gear, along with single-length slings to extend placements or anchor at belays. Climbers should come prepared with cord and a rappel ring to comfortably set up the rap station for a clean descent.

Access to this climb requires a short hike into the South Fork trail system, where weather and creek conditions can influence timing and safety. Ideal climbing windows span from late spring through early fall when the canyon dries out and temperatures hover in comfortable ranges. Morning climbs benefit from shaded walls, but afternoon sun warms the rock for cooler temperatures on brisk days.

Whether you’re sizing up the crack jams on the first pitch or tackling the daunting OW bulge, Auld Lang Syne offers a gritty, authentic taste of Colorado’s granite personality. It encourages an intimate dance with the rock, demanding a balance of strength, technique, and tactical gear placement amid a landscape that both challenges and rewards every move.

Climber Safety

Beware of loose vegetation and bushy overgrowth, especially approaching the ledges where footing can be tricky. The off-width bulge demands controlled body positioning to avoid sudden slips, and wet or dirty rock will significantly increase difficulty and risk. Double-check placements before committing, and prepare for a careful rappel descent.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length175 feet

Local Tips

Approach via the South Fork trail; expect a short but rugged hike with tight vegetation near the climb.

Early mornings offer cool shade on the wall, while afternoons warm the rock nicely in cooler seasons.

Bring tape or gloves for the off-width bulge to protect your hands during challenging jams.

Check recent weather for dry conditions; wet rock will drastically increase risk, especially on the bulge.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating on Auld Lang Syne aligns well with the technical demands of sustained crack climbing and the physical crux at the off-width bulge. While the grade feels fair overall, the bulge crux introduces a brief but intense challenge that may push some climbers to the upper end of 5.8. For local context, it compares to other trad climbs in the Lyons area with solid protection but requires solid crack technique and confidence in off-width moves.

Gear Requirements

Carry a single rack from BD #0.3 to 4, with extra pieces from #0.75 to 3 for comfort, plus a full set of stoppers and single-length slings. Don't forget cord and a rap ring for the rappel station.

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Tags

off-fingers
right-facing dihedral
off-width bulge
two-pitch
St. Vrain Canyon
bushes on route
granite
classic trad