"Atlantis offers a sharp, technical trad pitch highlighted by a bold initial glue-in and a challenging roof section. This route demands precision and control, making it a standout for climbers who enjoy complex gear placements on vertical rock in Quebec's scenic wilderness."
Atlantis commands attention from the moment you clip the initial high glue-in, a bold introduction that sets the tone for this demanding single-pitch trad route. Situated in the heart of Quebec’s rugged outdoor playground, this climb offers a compelling blend of technical face moves and strategic gear placements that push you to engage fully with the rock. The approach unfolds through dense forest patches along Lac Long’s edge, where the quiet rush of nearby water hints at the adventures to come. The climb begins on sharp dihedrals, requiring precise hand and cam placements amid a compact, vertical expanse. These features act as a gateway to the imposing roof—a distinct bulge that tests your footwork and composure as you negotiate the overhang. Here, gear hangs in delicate balance between glue-in bolts and carefully selected cams, making a practiced rack essential for security and flow. Beyond the roof, the rock opens into cleaner, steeper face climbing that demands controlled movement paired with efficient protection placements. The belay anchors, set with reliable glue-in bolts, await a well-earned rest with views sweeping over the surrounding mixed forest and the distant sound of the lake’s gently lapping waves. Atlantis isn't just a climb; it’s a focused dialogue between climber and cliff, blending technical challenges with raw natural energy. Prepare for a route that rewards commitment and sharp instincts, ideal for climbers ready to sharpen their trad skills in a quietly striking Quebec locale.
Take care with the high stick-clip at the start—failure to clip properly can lead to an awkward fall. Ensure your gear rack includes precise sizes for protection in small dihedrals and double-check glue-in bolts before trust. Rock is solid but always stay alert for loose pebbles near the roof.
Bring a diverse rack focusing on smaller cams for the dihedrals and mid-size protections for the roof.
Start early to avoid afternoon sun on the exposed face sections.
Familiarize yourself with stick-clip techniques to safely reach the initial high glue-in.
Approach the belay calmly; solid stance and good protection make for a comfortable rest before descent.
A mix of glue-in bolts and traditional gear is essential. The climb starts with a high stick-clip glue-in, followed by placements in small dihedrals using cams. Additional glue-ins protect the roof section and the upper face, ensuring secure protection throughout the climb.
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