"A dynamic three-pitch climb in El Potrero Chico, ‘At the Speed of the Millzypede’ offers a mix of solid sport bolting, occasional trad backup, and a crux that leads to a huge hollow flake. Perfect for climbers seeking a spirited route in Mexico’s wild canyon walls."
At El Potrero Chico, climbing 'At the Speed of the Millzypede' offers a spirited journey through steep faces and surprising terrain that challenges and rewards in equal measure. Spread over three pitches totaling 230 feet, this route weaves through broken cracks and hard-earned holds that demand attention and steady technique. The first pitch greets you with a series of five bolts climbing at 5.8 difficulty — approachable, but with occasional placements for those who enjoy mixing sport with a touch of traditional adventure. Here, the rock feels alive beneath your fingers, rugged and textured, setting the tone for what lies ahead.
Crossing into the second pitch, the climb intensifies to 5.10a over ten bolts, leading you into a cavernous pocket in the wall. The rock offers a playground of movement—climb into the hollow, figure out the escape route, then ascend toward the palm tree that marks the anchor. This pitch fuses technical moves with the thrill of exploration, the hollow sounds underfoot echoing the natural kingdom of Los Lobos Canyon around you.
The final stretch descends slightly in difficulty but not in adventure, finishing at 5.6. Supported by two bolts and culminating at an alcove anchor, this pitch has a looseness to it, evoking that raw feeling of jungle mountaineering as you gain the saddle of the ridge. The presence of the palms and the canyon's rugged contours complete the sensory experience—sunlight dapples the stone, and the canyon breathes with the rhythm of the wind.
This climb balances excitement with solid protection, offering sport bolting paired with opportunities for seasoned climbers to supplement gear on pitch one. Expect to move quickly but deliberately, respecting the heightened exposure and fragmented sections that demand concentration.
Getting here means entering the heart of El Potrero Chico, one of Northern Mexico’s premier climbing destinations. The Los Lobos Wall hugs the canyon with vertical faces that catch the morning sun, ideal for early starts before the afternoon heat sets in. The trailhead is accessible by a short approach, but be prepared for uneven terrain and a mild scramble to reach the base.
For climbers seeking an accessible yet memorable multi-pitch experience with a taste of traditional elements wrapped in sport climbing security, this route delivers. It’s a perfect day project or a part of a bigger climbing itinerary through the canyon’s wild and rugged spaces.
Pack lightweight gear but bring extra cams for pitch one if you want to top off protection. Footwear with sticky rubber is essential for the flake and face moves, and hydration will keep you sharp as the sun climbs higher. Timing your climb early in the day is advisable to enjoy cooler temperatures and quieter walls.
At its heart, ‘At the Speed of the Millzypede’ invites you into a dynamic dialogue with the rock and the canyon’s energy. It challenges your skills, rewards your persistence, and leaves you connected to one of Mexico’s most stunning sport climbing arenas. Ready your ropes — the crux and the hollow await.
Watch for loose rock especially on the third pitch’s alcove; helmets are strongly advised due to potential falling debris. Pitch one has some sections that could use additional protection if 5.8 is near your limit. Approach carefully through uneven terrain, and be cautious around the hollow flake to avoid unsteady holds.
Start early to avoid midday heat and enjoy shaded sections in the morning.
Carry supplemental cams for pitch one to enhance protection beyond bolts.
Wear sticky rubber shoes for better grip on the hollow flake and slabs.
Stay hydrated—there’s limited shade and the sun intensifies in the canyon.
Pitch one offers a five-bolt 5.8 climb with optional traditional gear placements for added security. Pitch two steps up to 5.10a with ten bolts leading to a two-bolt chain anchor by a palm tree. The final pitch is a 5.6 bolted climb to an alcove anchor with a slightly loose rock feel. Bringing cams for the first pitch is recommended, with good ropes and sticky climbing shoes essential for negotiating flakes and pockets.
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