"Astro-Boogie twists the familiar Astroboy Direct with a foot traverse and hand crack variation that blends secure bolted sections with classic trad climbing. Perfect for those seeking a substantive yet approachable challenge on Welsford’s towering cliffs."
Astro-Boogie offers an engaging twist on the familiar Astroboy Direct route, inviting climbers into a sustained trad challenge framed by rugged New Brunswick cliffs. Beginning with the secure climb up Astroboy Direct, where five well-placed bolts ease the initial technical moves, the route quickly shifts character. After clipping the last bolt on Astroboy Direct, you step onto a horizontal ledge that demands a confident foot traverse to the right, edging toward the Bullwhip Days anchor. This transition tests balance and focus while opening up a unique climbing line.
The hand and fist crack beckons beyond the anchor, a natural route that pulls you upward and rightward. The crack offers excellent holds, providing a steady flow that climbers of moderate skill will appreciate. The rhythm here feels purposeful but never overbearing, capped by a sloping ledge sheltered beneath a right-facing corner. This spot is perfect for a belay, anchored securely to a sturdy Spruce tree.
At approximately 100 feet, Astro-Boogie is a compact yet fulfilling single-pitch ascension. The climb never climbs above a 5.8 difficulty on the variation, making it accessible but with enough substance to challenge intermediate climbers looking for solid hand crack skills. Protection is straightforward: the initial bolts on Astroboy Direct provide solid security before transitioning to traditional placements along the crack. A rack sized for hand and fist cams will suit best here.
The setting is raw and compelling—Cochrane Lane’s cliffs in Welsford present a fascinating mix of vertical faces and ledges carved by time. The air hums with the touches of pine and the occasional rustle of forest creatures, offering a quiet but lively backdrop. Climbing here means engaging not just with stone but with the pulse of New Brunswick’s wilderness. This route is a fantastic introduction to the area’s trad possibilities or a rewarding variation for those already familiar with the classic Astroboy line.
Access is direct and simple, with Joe’s Garage parking close at hand and the approach a manageable hike along a well-worn path. Depending on the season, mornings can bring cool shadows to the face, while afternoons reveal warming sunlight, making timing important for optimal climbing conditions.
For those planning their climb: be prepared with standard trad gear and a focus on crack protection. Comfortable footwear with sticky rubber will help on the traverse and crack sections alike. Hydration and layered clothing are advised to adjust for variable conditions on the cliff. Whether on a day trip or part of a longer exploration of Welsford’s crags, Astro-Boogie balances adventure and accessibility, inviting you to move deliberately through stone and sky.
The foot traverse after the last bolt requires careful foot placement; a slip here could lead to a swing or fall. Additionally, inspect natural anchors like the spruce tree to ensure they are sound before trusting your belay.
Park at Joe's Garage and follow the well-marked trail to the base; approach time is under 15 minutes.
Bring a rack with a strong selection of hand and fist cams for the crack after the bolt section.
Time your climb for late morning to early afternoon for balanced sun exposure on the face.
Check spruce tree anchors for stability before belaying; they provide reliable natural protection.
Start with the five bolts securing Astroboy Direct before transitioning to a standard trad rack suitable for hand and fist-sized cams to protect the crack section.
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