HomeClimbingMere Wall

Ascending Mere Wall: A Classic Trad Climb on the Finger Flatiron

Boulder, Colorado USA
trad
finger crack
runout
classic
multi-pitch
south face
winter climb
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Mere Wall
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Mere Wall on the Finger Flatiron presents a classic 5.8 trad climb marked by a left-slanting crack system and playful route-finding. Sun-soaked and approachable even in winter, this two-pitch climb blends technical moves with rewarding exposure."

Ascending Mere Wall: A Classic Trad Climb on the Finger Flatiron

Mere Wall stands as a compelling challenge on the steep south face of the Finger Flatiron, offering climbers a direct taste of Boulder’s iconic granite in a quiet yet engaging setting. This classic 5.8 trad route snakes its way up a left-slanting incipient crack and ramp system that requires sharp route-finding and steady feet. The climb's diagonal nature brings an edge of thrill - falls for the follower can carry a risk beyond the typical Flatiron experience, making focus and precision essential throughout.

Starting just to the east of a large chockstone, the first 110 feet rise steadily following the crack system that veers left, providing natural hand and foot placements along the way. The rock, sun-warmed most of the year, invites an early start in spring and late autumn while maintaining climbability even through cold winter days. The placement of pro remains generally solid with a standard rack to 3 inches recommended, though some sections push the limits of easy gear placement and require a careful eye.

A memorable crux awaits near the top of the first pitch, demanding a deliberate, awkward traverse back left from the ramp. Beyond the crux, the route continues along a somewhat runout path hugging the left edge of the ramp until it opens onto a spacious ledge beneath the summit. Here, belayers can rest and assess the next move.

The final stretch diverges with two main options: a short scramble through a hole leading east to the summit or a second pitch that climbs an awkward, left-leaning crack through an overhang. This pitch ramps up the difficulty near 5.9, but solid protection and careful footwork make it achievable. From the summit, a 60-foot rappel northwest via bolts and slings brings you safely back to the ground.

Approaches include entering the gully west of the Finger Flatiron or ascending from Mallory Cave to the notch between the Shark’s Fin and Finger Flatiron. Note that access through the notch was closed in 2001 to protect local bat populations, so the gully approach is preferred. The terrain on approach is straightforward but involves some off-trail cross-country through forested slopes, requiring sturdy shoes and a good map or GPS.

Mere Wall delivers an engaging combination of solid granite climbing, memorable moves, and stunning Flatiron exposure. While the route carries the straightforward grade of 5.8, route finding and occasional runouts offer an added mental challenge, perfect for climbers looking to sharpen their trad skills in a classic Front Range setting.

Bringing a full standard rack along with 3-inch protection helps secure the more difficult placements. Plan to climb on dry rock after recent rains and start early to avoid afternoon heat and sun exposure. The south-facing wall keeps you warmed in cooler months but can become hot in high summer. A headlamp could prove handy in lower light conditions as descents can take some time.

For those ready to explore the storied granite bastions just west of Boulder, Mere Wall offers adventure with enough nuance to reward attention at every move.

Climber Safety

The route includes some runout sections and falls for the follower can be serious due to the diagonal nature of the climb. Pay close attention to gear placements and never underestimate the commitment on the awkward crux traverse. The south-facing granite can become hot in summer—hydrate well and plan climbs in cooler parts of the day.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length feet

Local Tips

Approach via the gully west of Finger Flatiron to avoid access closures near Mallory Cave.

Start early to avoid sun exposure on the south-facing wall during summer afternoons.

Carry a full standard rack including larger gear up to 3" for the toughest placements.

Check weather conditions and rock dryness; wet granite can be slippery and hazardous.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:While Mere Wall is rated a moderate 5.8, the diagonal crack and ramp system add an element of complexity that elevates the mental game. The crux traverse feels a bit stiff for the grade but remains well-protected. Compared to other Flatiron classics, this route offers a balanced challenge with some runout sections that keep climbers fully engaged.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack up to 3-inch cams is recommended to cover gear placements throughout the route. While protection is generally reliable, the diagonal crack and ramp sections occasionally demand careful placement, especially near the crux traverse and runout sections.

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Tags

trad
finger crack
runout
classic
multi-pitch
south face
winter climb