"Gondwana offers an intense blend of sport and aid climbing on Peña de Bernal's imposing West Face. With six pitches marked by technical sequences and precarious scrambling, this route tests climbers ready for an intricate challenge framed by striking desert vistas."
Rising sharply from the desert floor, Peña de Bernal's West Face holds Gondwana, a demanding six-pitch climb that blends sport and aid climbing on Mexico’s towering monolith. The route begins with three pitches that combine solid technical climbing with a rugged edge—the face wears patches of moss and lichen that remind you this line exists in a raw, untamed environment. Here, featuring ratings between 5.10 and 5.11, you’ll balance sharp footwork and steady hand jams while hunting for bolts hidden behind nature’s slow encroachment.
Pitch four marks the crux, where the rock changes personality. A loose scramble on fragmented stone challenges confidence as you maneuver toward a precarious traverse across crumbly holds. The tension rises; each move tests patience and precision. This pitch demands awareness and careful body positioning—pushing far enough to reach a secure hanging belay feels like a victory in itself.
Next, the fifth pitch delivers the route's prize: a sustained 5.11d roof crack that invites intimate contact with the rock. Feet find solid feet inside the crack’s subtle edges, while hands navigate three-dimensional holds that reward thoughtful movement. The protection here is excellent and well-spaced, though some climbers opt to supplement bolts with small cams and micro nuts for added confidence during tricky sequences. This extended pitch feels like a moment suspended on the wall—both physically and mentally exhilarating.
The final pitch transitions into a 5.10c/d challenge, starting with a strenuous pull over the roof before opening up to more straightforward climbing peppered with sparse bolts. The exposures here keep your senses sharp, with every move requiring focus to maintain momentum and composure. A short scramble pulls you to the final anchor, signaling the summit’s proximity.
Descent is straightforward via the nearby via ferrata line, allowing climbers to efficiently and safely return to the base, a relief after the route’s sustained effort. Bringing a quickdraw rack for bolts, a small selection of trad gear to supplement aid sections, and a calm mindset will turn this technical adventure into a rewarding experience. Timing this climb early in the day avoids afternoon heat, and the west-facing wall means you'll enjoy sun on the approach with shade appearing as the day progresses.
Gondwana on Peña de Bernal demands both physical skill and mental tenacity. It’s a climb for those ready to engage with complex rock, variable conditions, and a route that truly tests your ability to read the stone beneath your hands. The desert air, surrounding cliffs, and distant hills all contribute to a compelling atmosphere where every move counts.
Pay close attention on pitch four where loose and crumbly rock could lead to unexpected holds breaking free. Always test hand and footholds cautiously. The exposure and sparse protection on the traverse also require steady nerves and clean movement to avoid falls.
Start early to avoid the afternoon sun on the exposed west-facing wall.
Bring lightweight trad gear for the roof crack on pitch five.
Prepare for some loose and crumbly rock sections—test each hold before committing.
Use the via ferrata for a safer and faster descent from the summit.
This route is bolted but benefits from carrying a small rack of trad gear including micro cams and nuts, especially useful on the crux roof crack pitch where supplemental protection aids confidence and safety.
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