"Art of War challenges with a sharp 5.10d boulder crux before unfolding into a steady line of corners and a final steep layback. Perfect for climbers craving a focused, technical sport pitch on Quadra Island’s dramatic East Wall."
Set against the rugged backdrop of Quadra Island’s East Wall, the Art of War route offers climbers a compelling blend of technical bouldering and sustained sport climbing over a single pitch. From the first moves, the climb demands focus and precision—a striking 5.10d boulder problem marks the entry, challenging you to establish a foothold on a surprisingly flat section of rock. Once past this early hurdle, the route unfolds with a rhythm of corner systems and delicate traverses that invite steady movement. The sequence shifts leftward at bolt four, guiding you through a series of short, sharp corners that keep your body engaged. Beyond this, a diagonal line pushes you upward to a welcome rest spot, a rare moment to catch your breath and recalibrate.
The climb’s final stretch intensifies, leading you past detached blocks that test your balance and footwork, before reaching a large flake. This natural feature becomes a launching pad for a steep layback that defines the route’s climax—an exacting move that requires core tension and tactical foot placement to surmount. Throughout the ascent, the polished bolts offer solid protection, allowing you to commit without hesitation.
Located in the remote, untamed landscapes of British Columbia, this climb is as much about the journey as the route itself. The surrounding forest hums quietly beneath cliffs that rise sharply above the coastline, creating an environment that feels both wild and quietly watchful. Conditions can vary with the marine influence, so timing your climb during drier months ensures more reliable friction and safer rock.
Gear-wise, a standard sport rack suffices, with all protection fixed and well maintained. Preparing for the climb means sharpening your bouldering skills and packing gear suitable for a quick but intense push—lightweight shoes with good edging and a chalk bag are essentials. If you’re arriving on Quadra Island, allocate time to absorb the island’s tranquil beauty and plan an approach that respects the fragile environment. This is a climb that rewards respect for detail and a readiness to embrace a short but demanding challenge set amid spectacular coastal wilderness.
Though well protected, some sections feature detached blocks near the upper flake—stay alert to loose rock and maintain three points of contact during these moves. The coastal environment may cause patches of dampness, so assess conditions carefully before committing.
Aim for late spring through early fall to avoid wet, slippery rock from coastal weather.
Arrive early to catch morning sun on the face, as afternoon shade cools the rock considerably.
Use resole shoes to handle the sharp edges and smears on polished corners.
Carry minimal gear to stay agile on this short but intense route.
The route is fully bolted, requiring no traditional gear. Sticky rubber shoes and good chalk are recommended to confidently manage the boulder problem at the start and the steep layback finish.
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