"Art Baker Memorial offers a two-pitch trad challenge set on solid granite at Memorial Wall in California’s Southern Sierra. Expect a bold roof on pitch one and a sustained finger crack on pitch two, blending technical moves with straightforward protection."
Carving through the rugged cliffs of Tollhouse Rock in the Southern Sierra, Art Baker Memorial offers a two-pitch trad climb that challenges both your technique and judgment. The first pitch begins with a bold move over a roof, demanding precise footwork and confident liebacking along features that test your balance and control. The rock beneath your fingertips bears echoes of hollow flakes, urging a careful approach as you search for solid placements amid sparsely spread pro. Reaching the bolted anchor here, you’ve earned a moment to breathe before tackling the second pitch.
Pitch two intensifies with a sustained right-leaning finger crack stretching roughly 100 feet. This section invites steady, deliberate jams and secure gear placements, rewarding those who maintain focused rhythm and locked-in fingers. Protection is generous on this section, anchored by bolts at the top with rap rings primed for descent. Though some reports note wetness on this pitch during certain times of the year, a dry spell reveals clean stone and confident holds, transforming it into a purist’s groove.
Situated in California’s Southern Sierra, the climb lies in an area known for its raw granite faces and unfiltered wilderness feel. The approach is straightforward yet demands respect for the mountain environment—prepare for a moderate hike through forested trails with rocky outcrops and shifting sun that casts potent shadows over the wall.
Gear requirements for Art Baker Memorial focus on a solid rack of trad protection, particularly nuts and cams ranging from small sizes around a half-inch to larger sizes up to 2.5 inches, with particular attention to finger-sized pieces for the crack. The protection combined with the route’s moderate length of approximately 350 feet makes it suitable for intermediate trad climbers looking to test their skills in a setting that balances exposure with safety.
Timing your climb is key. The wall’s aspect lets the morning sun warm the lower pitches early, but afternoon shade provides relief from the California heat during summer months, making spring and fall prime climbing seasons. After topping out, a comfortable rappel or downclimb brings you back to the base, with anchors clearly marked and accessible.
Art Baker Memorial is an unvarnished offering in the Southern Sierra’s climbing catalog—solid granite, straightforward line, and enough variety to keep you engaged. It demands respect for sparse protection and subtle rock features but rewards with clean movement and a rewarding sense of place. Whether you’re sharpening trad skills or stepping into longer climbs, this route offers a well-rounded, grounded adventure amid the Sierra’s open air and rugged granite.
Be cautious on pitch one where some flakes appear hollow and protection is limited—test every piece and avoid excessive rock pulling. The crack on pitch two may hold moisture after rain or snowmelt, increasing risk of slips.
Start early to catch morning sun on the lower pitch and avoid afternoon heat.
Check recent weather to avoid wet crack conditions on pitch two.
Approach via the well-marked forest trail leading to Memorial Wall; moderate hiking effort required.
Use cams carefully on pitch one where some flakes are hollow-sounding.
Carry a rack with a solid selection of nuts and cams from 0.5 to 2.5 inches, emphasizing finger-sized pieces for the crack pitch. Note that some pro placements on pitch one may be trickier due to hollow flakes, so test placements thoroughly.
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