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Arrow Spire: A Classic Trad Challenge in Colorado's San Juans

Telluride, Colorado United States
traditional
multi-pitch
alpine
exposed
runout
Colorado
San Juans
crack climbing
Length: 1500 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
7
Location
Arrow Spire
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Arrow Spire stands as one of the premier traditional climbs in Colorado’s San Juan Mountains. Stretching over seven pitches of technical cracks and exposed ledges, this route blends bold alpine character with classic rock challenges for climbers seeking a committed and memorable ascent."

Arrow Spire: A Classic Trad Challenge in Colorado's San Juans

Arrow Spire commands your full attention from the moment you approach its rugged walls, a defining feature among the alpine giants of the San Juan Mountains. This route crafts a memorable experience rooted in commitment and classic trad climbing, demanding a steady focus and respect for the mountain's wild edge. The climb unfolds over seven pitches and stretches roughly 1,500 feet, rewarding climbers with a sequence that blends technical dihedral climbing, exposed traverses, and measured runouts that sharpen your route-finding instincts.

The first pitch is a standout—the central dihedral rises for more than 200 feet at a solid 5.8 grade, offering sustained finger jams and cracks that test your technique and endurance. This section feels alive, the rock contours shaping a perfect groove that channels the spirit of traditional climbing. Pitch two shifts the rhythm: easier terrain lets you catch your breath but demands precise footwork around runout sections that mask steeper overhangs, ensuring no room for complacency.

Beyond this, the climb eases into 5.6 terrain with enough exposure to keep adventurers alert. Navigating around fragmented towers before the summit accentuates the alpine vibe—each step balanced on the knife-edge between exhilaration and caution. The final arrival at the spire’s peak delivers sweeping views of the surrounding San Juans, where jagged ridges roll into the horizon and alpine winds dare you to linger but remind you of the mountain’s indifferent pace.

Descending demands careful attention. The traditional rappel into the notch below is a critical moment, especially when weather tightens its grip—as past parties have found themselves caught in lightning storms, forcing hasty retreats down loose gullies. Most of the descent can be downclimbed, but the last 150 feet require a rappel, with anchors reportedly still in place. Bring adequate gear and always plan for shifting alpine conditions; storms can develop quickly, wrapping the crag in mist and rain.

Gear-wise, a double set of cams plus stoppers will cover the protection needs here, configured for placements that range from bomber to tricky. The rock quality generally favors solid placements but expect occasional loose flakes especially near the descent gully—an extra layer of caution during gear placement is wise.

Arrow Spire inhabits the heart of the Grenadier Wilderness within the San Juans, a conservation zone marked by vast high-elevation terrain, wildflower meadows, and jagged peaks that test climbers physically and mentally. The approach is a rugged trek into alpine territory demanding sturdy boots and an early start to avoid afternoon storms frequent in this part of Colorado.

The route faces northeast, making morning climbs pleasant with sun warming the rock, while afternoons cool quickly in the shade. The best window to tackle Arrow Spire spans from late June through September, when snow has receded but thunderstorms remain a daily possibility.

Approaching the climb involves a well-worn trail leading toward Arrow Peak with the GPS coordinates 37.6979, -107.6111 marking the general area. Expect at least two to three hours of hiking over rocky terrain, gaining moderate elevation before reaching the base. Remember to carry enough water and layered clothing, as temperatures can swing dramatically once you leave the forest line.

For climbers eyeing this classic San Juan challenge, Arrow Spire offers a balanced blend of technical climbing, alpine exposure, and navigational complexity. It is not a climb for the faint-hearted but promises memorable rewards for those who prepare accordingly and respect its shifting mountain moods.

Climber Safety

Exercise caution on the descent, where loose rock and steep gullies pose hazards. Weather shifts can come abruptly, so be prepared to retreat early if thunderstorms approach. Always check anchor integrity on rappel points, especially after winter.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches7
Length1500 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon thunderstorms common in summer.

Bring sturdy boots for the steep, loose approach trail.

Carry extra slings or cordelette to build or extend anchors.

Plan for a rappel off the summit notch; fixed anchors are likely but always verify before relying.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating fits well with the sustained dihedral pitch but is softened slightly by the easier terrain above. The crux pitch demands solid crack skills with continuous jams and a few runouts that raise psychological stakes. Compared to nearby San Juan routes, Arrow Spire offers a classic alpine trad experience without resorting to harder technical grades—ideal for climbers looking to stretch skills in an exposed mountain setting.

Gear Requirements

A double set of cams paired with stoppers will cover the protection demands, offering secure placements in solid cracks across most pitches. Be ready for some tricky placements and occasional loose rock near the descent gully.

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Tags

traditional
multi-pitch
alpine
exposed
runout
Colorado
San Juans
crack climbing