Adventure Collective

Arete on the Goose, Flatirons, Boulder CO

Boulder, Colorado United States
trad
single pitch
arête
runout sections
anchor upgrade
west face
boulder flatirons
Length: 140 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Arete
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Arete on the Goose demands technical precision across a single 140-foot pitch that hugs a sharp arête on Boulder's Flatirons. Featuring a mix of careful protection and intriguing route choices, it's an engaging trad climb for those eager to explore a quieter corner of this iconic formation."

Arete on the Goose, Flatirons, Boulder CO

Perched on the rugged western face of the Goose, the Arete route marks a distinct line where sharp edges meet textured cracks, testing both your patience and technical skill on traditionally protected terrain. This one-pitch trad climb, stretching roughly 140 feet, offers a compelling blend of moderate difficulty and thoughtful route-finding set against the raw backdrop of Colorado’s iconic Flatirons. The approach begins from the Fern Canyon trail, winding around the Goose Eggs before veering onto a subtle faint path that skirts the western flanks of the Goose. This approach feels less-traveled, lending a quiet sense of discovery as you draw nearer to the climb.

The climb itself shares its starting point with Deserted Cities of the Heart. After clipping two bolts early on, you traverse right on easy ground to reach the arête. A solitary tree crowns the initial section, its sturdy branches available for slinging anchors and resting before you tackle a roof. Beyond the roof, horizontal cracks demand precise cam placements, beginning with smaller protective gear like a Black Alien and progressing up to a #3 Camalot for wider sections. At a crucial break on the arête, the route forces a decision: a leftward layback towards a crack system or a rightward traverse onto a smoother, more challenging face that feels harder than its official 5.5 rating. The technical crux invites careful movement and offers a rewarding mental puzzle for climbers seeking balance between risk and control.

Anchored by a solid three-bolt belay at the top, rappelling options include a straightforward 140-foot descent to the west or a slightly trickier 165-foot rappel to the south, involving a difficult pull over flakes—only about 100 feet of which are free rappel. This rappel choice rewards good rope management and nuts-and-bolts attention to anchor quality. Wildlife closures can affect access, so plan with awareness and respect for seasonal restrictions.

The Goose itself stands as a less crowded sector within Boulder’s celebrated Flatirons range, renowned for its layered sandstone and granite formations. Though this route averages a modest 1.4-star rating, it is a striking climb for those who enjoy careful traditional protection and route reading without the gates of heavily trafficked lines. The presence of somewhat runout but protectable sections heightens the feeling of adventure, inviting climbers who value slow, mindful movement over outright athleticism. Black Alien to #3 Camalot sizes cover the protection needs here, recommended to keep your gear rack light yet comprehensive.

Timing your climb for morning-to-midday can keep the rock favorable—sun warming the face but not baking it—while summer afternoons can push temperatures into the uncomfortable range. The west-facing orientation benefits from cooling breezes, but be mindful of quick weather changes typical in Colorado’s high desert climate. The approach trail and climbing surface both reward sturdy footwear, ideally with sticky soles for scrambling and stable foot placements on both dirt and rock.

The descent demands equal attention as the climb; rappel anchors have been recently updated, but the longer southern rappel requires patience and care to avoid snagging ropes on flakes. Bringing an extra long cordelette or extension slings will simplify anchor setup and reduce rope drag. All told, Arete on the Goose blends a considered trad challenge with a taste of Boulder’s classic Flatirons landscape, perfect for climbers looking to expand their local repertoire with a route that rewards tenacity and precision over flash and speed.

Climber Safety

Rappel anchors have been updated but still require attention, particularly for the southern descent which involves difficult rope pulls over flakes—extra care in managing your rope and gear is essential to avoid complications.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length140 feet

Local Tips

Approach via Fern Canyon trail and follow the faint path skirting the western side of the Goose Eggs.

Consider early morning ascents to avoid afternoon heat and maximize rock friction.

Check for potential wildlife closures before your trip to ensure access.

Bring extra slings or cordelette for the rappel anchors; the southern rappel involves tricky rope pulls.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 R
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8 R, the route demands respect for its runout nature and gear placements. The crux features a move that feels slightly harder than a standard 5.5, especially on the smoother right-hand face. Protection is available but requires attentive gear management, making this climb feel appropriately committing without being overwhelming for confident trad climbers.

Gear Requirements

Protection ranges from small to larger cams, with a Black Alien up to a #3 Camalot recommended. Recent upgrades to the anchor system provide confidence at the belay station.

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Tags

trad
single pitch
arête
runout sections
anchor upgrade
west face
boulder flatirons