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Applied Magnetics: A Classic Moderate Trad Climb in Santa Barbara

Santa Barbara, California United States
trad crack
slab
single pitch
moderate difficulty
coastal climbing
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Applied Magnetics
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Applied Magnetics delivers a focused and accessible trad climb along the Santa Barbara coastline, offering an inviting mix of seam jams and slab moves. Perfect for climbers developing gear skills and balance, this route provides a moderate challenge framed by coastal cliffs and sweeping views."

Applied Magnetics: A Classic Moderate Trad Climb in Santa Barbara

Applied Magnetics stands out as one of the rare moderate traditional climbs in the rugged coastal cliffs near Santa Barbara. This single-pitch 80-foot route offers a straightforward yet satisfying blend of seam climbing and face moves, making it a go-to challenge for climbers seeking quality moderate trad without the crowds or complexities of longer multi-pitch adventures. The climb begins with a narrow, pocketed crack that demands precise hand jams and finger locks, rewarding solid technique over brute strength. As the crack fades into a slabby face right of the distinctive bulge, climbers transition into careful slab climbing that demands balance and thoughtful foot placement, keeping the experience varied and engaging.

The route’s position between a loose 3rd class gully on one side and the striking Vanishing Flakes crack on the other places it in a rugged yet accessible part of the central California coast. The rock carries the character of this region — solid sandstone with pockets and seams that challenge protection placement and movement. Protection is straightforward for the lower section where a gently curving crack runs about twenty feet before it dissipates, but beyond that, the line climbs right and up to a bolt roughly two-thirds of the way, making it an easy choice for those who want a secure anchor point while practicing traditional gear techniques.

Approaching the climb involves a short hike into the San Ysidro area, where rocky coastal bluff landscapes meet forested patches. The trail is moderate, with enough elevation gain to warm muscles before the crux. Choosing the right timing is key—early morning or late afternoon light delivers the best conditions, as midday sun can heat the stone and sap grip. Bringing medium-sized cams and a set of nuts will cover the protection needs well, especially focusing on smaller pieces for the crack and ensuring comfort with slab technique where pro options are limited.

Locals appreciate Applied Magnetics for its accessibility and dependability as a solid moderate route that blends technical seam climbing with the mental game of slab. While the grade comes in at 5.8 PG13, be prepared for the crux slab moves that can feel deceptively stiff if your footwork is unpolished. The rock here demands respect and calm precision—rushing through the slab can mean slips. This route offers a rich training ground for climbers looking to build trad confidence and balance, especially in a coastal setting where weather shifts can change the nature of the climb quickly.

Safety considerations include watching for loose flakes in the adjacent gully and staying mindful of weather—marine layer mornings can create slick rock surfaces. The descent is straightforward: a single rappel or careful downclimb back to the trailhead, with minimal exposure but enough caution needed on the slabby exit terrain.

For climbers seeking a crisp, moderate trad route with enough challenge to hone gear placement and slab skills while soaking in the unique coastal vibe of the Santa Barbara area, Applied Magnetics is a reliable and rewarding choice. It embodies the approachable spirit of Central Coast climbing—offering just enough of a test to stretch ability, without overwhelming.

Climber Safety

Watch carefully for loose rock near the gully and stay alert to possible slickness on the slab from morning marine fog. Protection is solid but sparse beyond the crack, so stay confident in slab footwork and clip the bolt promptly to avoid long runouts.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the heat and ensure better friction on the slab.

Approach via the marked trail in San Ysidro; expect about 20 minutes of steady hiking.

Double-check your placements on the crack before committing to the slab moves.

Pack light water and wind layers—coastal breezes pick up in the afternoon.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 PG13 grade reflects a moderate but thoughtful challenge. The initial crack provides secure jams, but the slab above introduces a subtle crux requiring balance and mental focus. The PG13 implies runouts are possible on the slab, though the bolt offers a reliable midpoint protection. Comparable to other moderate Central Coast cliffs, this route feels slightly upgraded due to its slab section and protection layout.

Gear Requirements

Wear comfortable shoes with sticky rubber to handle the slab sections effectively. Bring a standard trad rack focusing on small to medium cams and nuts to protect the initial crack and crack transitions. A quickdraw for the bolt helps protect the slab moves safely.

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Tags

trad crack
slab
single pitch
moderate difficulty
coastal climbing