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Aplodonita Trad and Alpine Route on Power Dome West Face

Fresno, California United States
left-facing dihedral
multi-pitch
small tri-cams
exposed ledge
southern sierra
bolted anchors
alpine trad
Length: 550 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
4
Location
Aplodonita
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Aplodonita delivers a compelling alpine trad climb along Power Dome’s west face, blending secure bolt placements with technical pitches across 550 feet. This route challenges climbers to balance precision and endurance as they ascend a striking left-facing dihedral above Courtright Reservoir."

Aplodonita Trad and Alpine Route on Power Dome West Face

Aplodonita presents an invigorating blend of classic trad climbing and alpine adventure set against the rugged backdrop of California’s Southern Sierra. Beginning just off a broad central ledge crowned by a commanding tree, this 550-foot ascent unfolds along a sheer left-facing dihedral etched into the western face of Power Dome. The climb offers four pitches of varied terrain that demand steady hands and a sharp eye for gear placements, balanced with the quiet solitude that only a remote alpine wall can provide.

The approach leads you through the rugged contours above Courtright Reservoir, stepping carefully onto an exposed ramp that drops toward a lively creek below—the sound of rushing water marking your approach like a natural countdown. As you gain height, the stone’s texture changes from rough granite to smoother slabs, each pitch presenting a new challenge punctuated by well-placed bolts and anchors, complemented by the option to supplement with small tri-cams for added security.

The route’s 5.9 rating is approachable but with a modest edge; the crux leans on technical smearing and confident footwork along the dihedral’s vertical walls. Climbers will appreciate the blend of protection—bolt lines providing reassurance while still testing traditional gear skills—making this a solid choice for adventurers seeking a route that bridges sport’s safety net with trad’s rewarding decision-making.

Situated in a quiet corner of the Southern Sierra, the Power Dome’s west face commands a sweeping view of the surrounding wilderness. The wall catches afternoon light, offering a dynamic play of shadows ideal for mid-day to late climbs. Evenings bring crisp mountain air, reminding climbers to plan for rapid weather changes and pack accordingly. Hydration and sturdy footwear are essential, as rough approach paths step through forested terrain before breaking out onto the exposed ledge.

For those looking to extend the experience, the descent is straightforward but demands attention—rappelling from bolted anchors into the creek canyon below, with enough rope management to avoid snagging on errant branches or loose rock. The area’s relative seclusion means that climbers often have the line to themselves, granting a peaceful encounter with nature’s raw elements.

Whether you’re transitioning from sport routes or expanding your alpine resume, Aplodonita offers an engaging step up. It combines clear route-finding with moments that invite concentration and presence amid the soaring Sierra landscape. Prepare wisely, move deliberately, and you’ll find this climb both challenging and deeply rewarding.

Climber Safety

Approach ledges can be exposed with loose rock in spots—move with caution when starting the climb and double-check all anchor placements. Watch for rapid weather changes common in the alpine setting, which can quickly affect rock conditions and descent safety.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches4
Length550 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat and afternoon winds on the west face.

Wear sturdy shoes with good edging capabilities for slab sections.

Bring at least 60 meters of rope to manage longer rappels safely.

Hydrate well before the climb; water sources are limited at the approach.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, Aplodonita feels true to grade with some stiff moments in the technical dihedral, requiring precise footwork rather than brute strength. The protection is generally reliable, making the difficulty manageable for intermediate trad climbers transitioning into alpine routes. Compared to nearby Power Dome climbs, this route offers a solid technical challenge without pushing into full 5.10 territory.

Gear Requirements

Bolts anchor each pitch securely while small tri-cams are recommended for protecting tricky sections. Pack a standard trad rack with an emphasis on smaller sizes to maximize safety along the dihedral.

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Tags

left-facing dihedral
multi-pitch
small tri-cams
exposed ledge
southern sierra
bolted anchors
alpine trad